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And here is the B&M trans pan that I already painted and sanded the ridges on that I was trying to coordinate these covers with.
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Last edited by highlander; 06-28-2007, 06:21 PM.69, 342 EFI, C4, NP203, D20, 4.5" SL, 2" BL, 4.88 9" 35 spline ARB, 4.88 HP D44, WAH, ARB, CTM's, front disc , 37 x 14.50 Toyo MT, Ram Assist, and rear 4-link -
OMG!!! Those covers look amazing!!!!
Great Work!!! Can you build me a doubler????
AaronKK6DAD
70 Miles to the Rubicon!
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what C4 are you running, pan filled EB or case filled?
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Pan filled.what C4 are you running, pan filled EB or case filled?69, 342 EFI, C4, NP203, D20, 4.5" SL, 2" BL, 4.88 9" 35 spline ARB, 4.88 HP D44, WAH, ARB, CTM's, front disc , 37 x 14.50 Toyo MT, Ram Assist, and rear 4-linkComment
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aRE YOU KIDDING ME??!! Those covers look B%*ching!!!
Nice work! I'm in for a set if you ever get into production mode!!!! 
'88 347 roller, Exploder EFI, WH Shorties, NP435, twin stick D-20 with Tera lows, 44 4:56's w/ARB chromos and CTMs, 9" Detroit, cust dash, wiring and STILL ALMOST "DONE"!...Comment
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Nice work..
What converter did you end up getting?“I would rather be exposed to the inconveniences attending too much liberty than to those attending too small a degree of it.” TJComment
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You have too much time on your hands, but looks great!
Rick-68 Slightly modified
67 LUBR once again
61 Willy WagonComment
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I had a custom one made through ART's converter guy. Furnace brazed, thrust bearings, and 1800 stall. There converter man was pretty confident I would be happy with it, if not he will rebuild it diffrently for free.What converter did you end up getting?Last edited by highlander; 04-02-2008, 08:09 PM.69, 342 EFI, C4, NP203, D20, 4.5" SL, 2" BL, 4.88 9" 35 spline ARB, 4.88 HP D44, WAH, ARB, CTM's, front disc , 37 x 14.50 Toyo MT, Ram Assist, and rear 4-linkComment
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T-cases are back in, I'm not sure if I am happy with how low they hang. I think I will need to cut out the body brace and extend the tunnel back a few inches. The 203 breather hits the floor right where the tunnel comes down, if I cut that out there is about 1.5" until the D20 hits the floor brace. Both the D20 and the 203 hang about 2" below the frame. So should I cut out the body brace and if I do will it need to reinforced (this is the one that the front part of the seats mounts to)? Also long term I would like to make new long arms like the ones Lars recently built that would mount the same as the lower rear links.
Here are few pics it is hard to get ones showing what hits the floor:Attached Files69, 342 EFI, C4, NP203, D20, 4.5" SL, 2" BL, 4.88 9" 35 spline ARB, 4.88 HP D44, WAH, ARB, CTM's, front disc , 37 x 14.50 Toyo MT, Ram Assist, and rear 4-linkComment
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My rear end isn't mounted but with it mocked up pretty close to stock wheel base my rear driveshaft will be 26" and the front will be 30.5". If I left the slip yokes front and rear and just swapped the drive shaft they would be pretty close to the right length. My shafts are pretty old and worn so I will have some new ones made up, but these will probably work as spares.69, 342 EFI, C4, NP203, D20, 4.5" SL, 2" BL, 4.88 9" 35 spline ARB, 4.88 HP D44, WAH, ARB, CTM's, front disc , 37 x 14.50 Toyo MT, Ram Assist, and rear 4-linkComment
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I stripped the 9" down, torched and ground off the spring perches and shock mounts, sand blasted, backbone trussed, and shaved it today! as you can tell by the before pic, my rearend has been drug over a rock or two.
I still need to weld up the inside of the plate where it was shaved and then I can start on the 4-link mounts
Attached Files69, 342 EFI, C4, NP203, D20, 4.5" SL, 2" BL, 4.88 9" 35 spline ARB, 4.88 HP D44, WAH, ARB, CTM's, front disc , 37 x 14.50 Toyo MT, Ram Assist, and rear 4-linkComment
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I really with my tcase sat up as high as yours...you can build a belly pan and be pretty good. Sure seems like a lot of work to move the tunnel back. But, I am not nearly as driven as you.
Did you can and mold the truss or is that something that you bought? Looks god though...“I would rather be exposed to the inconveniences attending too much liberty than to those attending too small a degree of it.” TJComment
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That shaved 9" looks good. What did you use to plate it with? 1/4"? Nice work!Originally posted by 71BRONCO71 at Buck Island 6/25/11Comment
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If I leave the body brace I can get them to about 3/4" below the frame, but I will still have to notch the tunnel very slightly. I will see what it looks like after I notch it out.I really with my tcase sat up as high as yours...you can build a belly pan and be pretty good. Sure seems like a lot of work to move the tunnel back. But, I am not nearly as driven as you.
Did you can and mold the truss or is that something that you bought? Looks god though...
The truss I originally planned to fab from some rectangle tubing, but I found that one at summit so I went that route. It fit really well I would of liked it to have a little more contact with the axle tube, so I might add a piece in.
1/4" plate bent in a vice with a BFH. I am thinking of running a second piece about 2" wide under the center and up the back to the truss, maybe out of some plow steel???That shaved 9" looks good. What did you use to plate it with? 1/4"? Nice work!69, 342 EFI, C4, NP203, D20, 4.5" SL, 2" BL, 4.88 9" 35 spline ARB, 4.88 HP D44, WAH, ARB, CTM's, front disc , 37 x 14.50 Toyo MT, Ram Assist, and rear 4-linkComment
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I got the inside all welded up, although I welded about an inch and ran out of wire. So I went to Napa to get more and welded another couple inches and ran out of CO2, but I had another bottle for the homebrew. Then, I tried to bend some 5/16" plow steel I had but there was no way to bend it with a hammer and anvil. I even tried a rosebud torch. so I made the skid out of 1/4" plate which bent up nicely using the big hammer and anvil.
Bring on the rocks!!Attached FilesLast edited by highlander; 07-02-2007, 12:17 PM.69, 342 EFI, C4, NP203, D20, 4.5" SL, 2" BL, 4.88 9" 35 spline ARB, 4.88 HP D44, WAH, ARB, CTM's, front disc , 37 x 14.50 Toyo MT, Ram Assist, and rear 4-linkComment
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