Here are the links made up and installed, I cut them with my 14" chopsaw. I didn't feel like putting the motor back on the bandsaw for 4 cuts. They are nice and square. I welded them up with my new Miller 210, so much better than the Miller 135.
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Well to get the numbers in a desirable range I made the upper links perfectly flat. (look at the box where it says upper links and lower links in blue and red) The numbers in the Z axis are the height of the link ends from the ground. The upper links are 28.5" at frame and axle. X axis is the distance from the rear axle (+ is forward, - is back) my frame mounts are both 37" forward of the rear axle. The Y axis is the link ends distance from the center-line of the truck, all my frame end mounts are 18" apart so 9" is half that distance.
The results that I look at are the Anti squat (AS) and the Roll Axis Angle (RAA), these are found in green and gold in the geometry summary box (top middle) Don't confuse these with the travel AS and RAA top right. I was shooting for neutral AS or slightly lower (100% is neutral, lower is less than 100%) I also wanted a RAA as close to 0° as possible (a + number is roll over-steer, and a - number is roll under-steer) I wanted to be at 0 or slightly under (roll under steer).
Did that help any?Last edited by highlander; 07-03-2007, 08:26 AM.69, 342 EFI, C4, NP203, D20, 4.5" SL, 2" BL, 4.88 9" 35 spline ARB, 4.88 HP D44, WAH, ARB, CTM's, front disc , 37 x 14.50 Toyo MT, Ram Assist, and rear 4-link
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Do you think that 99% anti squat is going to be too high? I don't want you to have the "hopping" problem that I have. At 100% you should have no squat at all and no weight transfer to rear upon acceleration. I know it's hard as hell to get all of the numbers within the desirable range with our narrow frames.
I like the links!!!!!Last edited by crawlin68; 07-03-2007, 08:55 AM.
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I figure at 100% there should be no squatting or rising. With my frame upper link mounts I can adjust the AS up to 109% or down to 89%. I can also drop the upper axle mounts down 1" to get it it as low 82% AS.
To little AS will also cause hopping.69, 342 EFI, C4, NP203, D20, 4.5" SL, 2" BL, 4.88 9" 35 spline ARB, 4.88 HP D44, WAH, ARB, CTM's, front disc , 37 x 14.50 Toyo MT, Ram Assist, and rear 4-link
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crawlin68
Oh yeah, nice welder! I can only wish.
I have the 210 also. Love it, but wish I had spent the extra for the 250. There have been times I could use the 20 amp setting rather than 30A.
69, 342 EFI, C4, NP203, D20, 4.5" SL, 2" BL, 4.88 9" 35 spline ARB, 4.88 HP D44, WAH, ARB, CTM's, front disc , 37 x 14.50 Toyo MT, Ram Assist, and rear 4-link
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I have a Millermatic 185, I absolutely love the machine, easier and easier to learn each time I use it. Hell I have a bud who is a nonticketed welder by trade.... first time he used it on some 1/4" plate when we did my front bumper, all he could say, damn I dont have a MIG yet in my own garage, but when the time comes..... its gonna be one of these!
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I got the spring buckets cut down and I decided to use the plates for the bump stops as the bottom piece. So I welded them to the plates and they can still be unbolted for now, I'll weld them up when every thing is set. I set the lower spring buckets on the old spring perches and put the weight of the Bronco on the springs the springs compressed 16.5". So I made some new perches to set my ride height where I wanted it. Now I will pull all these off finish building the lower buckets clean every thing up and weld them on. Oh I also have the upper shock mounts clamped where I think they will go. I will only run single shocks but the front hole will take a 12" travel shock and provides 14" of travel and the rear hole can take a 14" travel shock that provides 16" of travel.Last edited by highlander; 11-08-2007, 09:46 PM.69, 342 EFI, C4, NP203, D20, 4.5" SL, 2" BL, 4.88 9" 35 spline ARB, 4.88 HP D44, WAH, ARB, CTM's, front disc , 37 x 14.50 Toyo MT, Ram Assist, and rear 4-link
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OK so forgive my ignorance again but...
Why don't some of you wicked fabricators just put a D44 on the rear and go 4 wheel steering too? Seems just as easy as fabricating all new stuff like you are. 4 wheel steering would be nice in the tight spots too. Right?
JeffVacaville, Ca
67 EB - D44, BB 9" (4:56's), front discs, Wristed arm, 5.5" + 2" BL, 37" MTR's on Hellcats, 302/NP435/D20, Bilsteins, Mastercraft Rubicons w/4pt's
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Because 44s go snap, crackel, pop.67 Bronco blue - LS 6.0, 6l90, & atlas (working on it)
69 Bronco red - F/I 302,c-4,36" TSL S/X( sitting next to a barn)
69 Bronco Yellow - TBI 350,th350, 203/205, Dana 60, 14 bolt, 4-link rear, 3 link front,full hydro, body narrowed 8", 39.9 Iroks on Walker Evans
79 CJ 5 360 v8 t18 33's locked & sprung over (sitting in a barn since 2000)
67 Camaro Lq4,built 200r4,Hotchkis suspension(work in progre$$)
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Originally posted by seahawkfanOK so forgive my ignorance again but...
Why don't some of you wicked fabricators just put a D44 on the rear and go 4 wheel steering too? Seems just as easy as fabricating all new stuff like you are. 4 wheel steering would be nice in the tight spots too. Right?
Jeff
Now don't go putting any new idea's in my head!!! La, la, la,la,la...I can not hear you.....la,la,la,la.......
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