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  • #91
    Originally posted by TN1776 View Post
    Anybody got an open passenger's seat?
    I may as well............?
    '88 347 roller, Exploder EFI, WH Shorties, NP435, twin stick D-20 with Tera lows, 44 4:56's w/ARB chromos and CTMs, 9" Detroit, cust dash, wiring and STILL ALMOST "DONE"!...

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    • #92
      I added springs to my BCB throttle kit too. I bought a variety pack from Kragen and found the spring combo that gave the pedal feel i liked.
      1970 w/89 5.0, np 435/203/205, 456/locker/ARB, 4 wheel disc brakes w/hydroboost, 5.5" lift w/ext.radius arms, 3" bod lift, RS 9000's, tilt column, Hydro assist steering, 39.5" pitbull's on H1's. 4 link rear suspension. Hey brother, can you spare some change, I need parts....

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      • #93
        Originally posted by blwngsket View Post
        I added springs to my BCB throttle kit too. I bought a variety pack from Kragen and found the spring combo that gave the pedal feel i liked.
        Are you using one as a "return" spring as well? Or did replacing the one help your throttle return to idle completely?
        '88 347 roller, Exploder EFI, WH Shorties, NP435, twin stick D-20 with Tera lows, 44 4:56's w/ARB chromos and CTMs, 9" Detroit, cust dash, wiring and STILL ALMOST "DONE"!...

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        • #94
          I made a small little bracket and put a return spring on the throttle body like what I used to have with the carb. Works real nice. When I get home on Sunday I can snap a pic for you if you need.
          1970 w/89 5.0, np 435/203/205, 456/locker/ARB, 4 wheel disc brakes w/hydroboost, 5.5" lift w/ext.radius arms, 3" bod lift, RS 9000's, tilt column, Hydro assist steering, 39.5" pitbull's on H1's. 4 link rear suspension. Hey brother, can you spare some change, I need parts....

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          • #95
            A pic would be great! Thanks Tony....
            '88 347 roller, Exploder EFI, WH Shorties, NP435, twin stick D-20 with Tera lows, 44 4:56's w/ARB chromos and CTMs, 9" Detroit, cust dash, wiring and STILL ALMOST "DONE"!...

            Comment


            • #96
              Originally posted by FFMDX View Post
              SOON.....!
              I hope so! Need to test out my rig.
              77 Ranger, 302, C4, 4.88's, Detroits, 35 spline 9", WH 5.5", 3" BL, 37" BFG KM2's on Walker Evans 17" beadlocks

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              • #97
                Friggin' elect gremlins! So I went to fire her up and take to Home Depot, and the fuel pumps didn't run....I've got a good batt, inertia switch is good, pumps run with a direct line from the batt, fuses on Ryan's harness are good AND STILL NO PWR! ANy thoughts out there? Can't seem to pull any codes either....?????
                Also, trying to chase down an oil leak from what looks like the back of the heads.....still investigating that one...
                Last edited by FFMDX; 11-09-2008, 11:03 AM.
                '88 347 roller, Exploder EFI, WH Shorties, NP435, twin stick D-20 with Tera lows, 44 4:56's w/ARB chromos and CTMs, 9" Detroit, cust dash, wiring and STILL ALMOST "DONE"!...

                Comment


                • #98
                  Bad fuel relay? I know mine quits when warm then works again after cooling off. I have a bypass switch straight to the pump for when this happens. worth a look.
                  -Darin
                  67 Bronco blue - LS 6.0, 6l90, & atlas (working on it)
                  69 Bronco red - F/I 302,c-4,36" TSL S/X( sitting next to a barn)
                  69 Bronco Yellow - TBI 350,th350, 203/205, Dana 60, 14 bolt, 4-link rear, 3 link front,full hydro, body narrowed 8", 39.9 Iroks on Walker Evans
                  79 CJ 5 360 v8 t18 33's locked & sprung over (sitting in a barn since 2000)
                  67 Camaro Lq4,built 200r4,Hotchkis suspension(work in progre$$)

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                  • #99
                    I think I may have figured it out. The main batt wire for the computer was on my 2* battery, and that was btwn 8-10 volts. I extended the wire to my primary batt and she fired right up!!! Stooooopid oversight on my part when I wired the efi harness.

                    Thanks Darin, I'll look at the relay just in case. BTW, which relay is the fuel relay?

                    Anyone have any ideas on how to charge my 2* batt while running w/out and isolator?

                    Oh yeah, Hey Darin (69 crawler) where in SSF do you live? I grew-up in San Bruno, and my folks still live there....
                    Last edited by FFMDX; 11-09-2008, 07:09 PM.
                    '88 347 roller, Exploder EFI, WH Shorties, NP435, twin stick D-20 with Tera lows, 44 4:56's w/ARB chromos and CTMs, 9" Detroit, cust dash, wiring and STILL ALMOST "DONE"!...

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by FFMDX View Post
                      Thanks Darin, I'll look at the relay just in case. BTW, which relay is the fuel relay?

                      Anyone have any ideas on how to charge my 2* batt while running w/out and isolator?

                      Oh yeah, Hey Darin (69 crawler) where in SSF do you live? I grew-up in San Bruno, and my folks still live there....
                      Sean,
                      Start marking the relays and fuses now while things are fresh in your head. Remember to have spares...

                      Hook your batteries in parallel using a "constant duty solenoid" (Probably 130 amp rated)(Napa). Use the Aux battery to power, put a lighted switch on the dash. ON when you are running/charging, OFF when it is parked. Use large gauge wire from battery to solenoid to battery. That way if you run down the main, you can Jump yourself by flipping the switch. You want to get fancy... Power the solenoid from a ignition on source so it is automatic, Keep the switch (second circuit) as an emergency back up. Be sure to have a light as a reminder that it is working...
                      2002 F250 Superduty, 7.3 241,500 miles and counting
                      1979 Bronco, 351M,NP435,4:11's on 33's
                      2016 Race Red Shelby GT350

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                      • Originally posted by FFMDX View Post
                        A pic would be great! Thanks Tony....
                        After looking at it I recall making a bracket and not using it. The brackets have holes on them that will work. Just fished the spring in and it was done. Made a huge difference.
                        Attached Files
                        1970 w/89 5.0, np 435/203/205, 456/locker/ARB, 4 wheel disc brakes w/hydroboost, 5.5" lift w/ext.radius arms, 3" bod lift, RS 9000's, tilt column, Hydro assist steering, 39.5" pitbull's on H1's. 4 link rear suspension. Hey brother, can you spare some change, I need parts....

                        Comment


                        • Start marking the relays and fuses now while things are fresh in your head. Remember to have spares...
                          Doug, do you remember which is which relay?
                          '88 347 roller, Exploder EFI, WH Shorties, NP435, twin stick D-20 with Tera lows, 44 4:56's w/ARB chromos and CTMs, 9" Detroit, cust dash, wiring and STILL ALMOST "DONE"!...

                          Comment


                          • Radiator woes...

                            Wow, long time since I've posted anything...Not a whole lot done to my rig beside a dual batt set-up and chasing leaks.....I've put about 80 - 100 miles on it, and she runs like a raped ape!!!!!! (Big thanx to Delta!)

                            I have been noticing some heating issues though. Rollin', I'm running about 200 - 210 with a 195* t-stat, but at idle for awhile the gauge would get past 220 or so. Shot the H2O neck with my IR thermometer and read ~ 198*. I did have a bad sender well before my swap, but had replaced it.

                            I'm running the WH triple pass 4-core, which I had the inlet and outlet swapped so I can run my serp set up w/out the need of a crossover tube. I t/t Mark from WH (Thanx Mark), and he had stated that without swapping the tanks, I may have either nullified or really decreased the properties of the triple flow baffles, and the coolant is probably working against the baffles as well. When I take to cap off when she gets warm to see if I need to top-off, the rad is like olde faithful...

                            MY QUESTION: What would you do? I'm going to take the rad out and bring it back to the shop that did the work for me.

                            -----If I can swap the tanks then the answer is obvious, but the DS of the rad is clearanced for the PS box.

                            -----Have the baffles removed and just have a reg. (expensive) 4-core rad. (no other mods needed)

                            -----Return it to stock config and try to sell it, and get one for a serp..alum?

                            -----Return it to stock config and re-do my hose config.

                            What do ya think??
                            '88 347 roller, Exploder EFI, WH Shorties, NP435, twin stick D-20 with Tera lows, 44 4:56's w/ARB chromos and CTMs, 9" Detroit, cust dash, wiring and STILL ALMOST "DONE"!...

                            Comment


                            • Re: Radiator woes...

                              Have you felt or any cold spots in the rad?
                              I still think you have a air bubble because something else was higher then the filler neck.
                              Having an air bubble can cause all kind of issues.
                              You can simply add a bleeder screw to the highest point (if its a hose, just tap a piece of tube and cut your rad hose to run it inline.

                              Whats your coolant mix?
                              Really, we don't freeze out here much, so I run all water and a bottle of Red line water wetter.
                              Mark Harris
                              71 Bronco, 9 inch, 60, c4, Stak 3 speed, and 42 inch balloons.

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                              • Re: Radiator woes...

                                Originally posted by welndmn View Post
                                Have you felt or any cold spots in the rad?
                                I still think you have a air bubble because something else was higher then the filler neck.
                                Having an air bubble can cause all kind of issues.
                                You can simply add a bleeder screw to the highest point (if its a hose, just tap a piece of tube and cut your rad hose to run it inline.

                                Whats your coolant mix?
                                Really, we don't freeze out here much, so I run all water and a bottle of Red line water wetter.
                                No cold spots from what i remember. I agree on the bubble, but with the coolant flowing out the neck like olde faithful, seems to be a little more than that.....I'm running a 50/50 mix with water wetter. I'm taking it (the rad.) out today, and hopefully dropping it off tomorrow. Even though I "paid" for the triple flow option, I think I'm just going to have the baffles removed just in case, and run it...I like the bleeder idea.
                                \
                                any other ideas????
                                \Thanks...
                                '88 347 roller, Exploder EFI, WH Shorties, NP435, twin stick D-20 with Tera lows, 44 4:56's w/ARB chromos and CTMs, 9" Detroit, cust dash, wiring and STILL ALMOST "DONE"!...

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