70 Sport resto/mod

[CityHick]

Looks like I'll probably get it a week from today. Weird process to go though but the price could not be beat and shipping is free! I was looking for a little more HP but the thing's going to produce more torque than my Silverado's engine... I think I'll be pretty happy.

Tony

[earlybronco72]

Looks like I'll probably get it a week from today. Weird process to go though but the price could not be beat and shipping is free! I was looking for a little more HP but the thing's going to produce more torque than my Silverado's engine... I think I'll be pretty happy.

Tony

At what RPM are those numbers reached at? I have around those same numbers on my new 351W. I have somewhere near 250hp at 3500rpm, and 350ft-lbs at 2500rpm. This seems really nice in mine.

By the way, that thing is looking nice.

[highlander]

• I was curious too!

  • M-6007-S58
  • 5.8L/351 cubic inch – 4V
  • 250 HP @ 3800 RPM
  • 350 ft./lbs. @ 3300 RPM
  • 8.5:1 compression ratio
  • Includes Ford Racing dual plane 4V aluminum intake, Ford Racing tall polished aluminum valve covers M-6582-E302P, V-belt standard rotation mid-1970s style cast iron water pump with left hand inlet, aluminum timing chain cover with fuel pump mount, fuel pump block off and eccentric, E5AE-6090-CA cylinder heads without thermactor air passages, F4TR-6380-AA HD truck manual transmission flywheel, high torque flat tappet cam E7JE-6250-AA, full sump oil pan, Duraspark distributor and coil, spark plug wires, block is hydraulic roller cam compatible

[earlybronco72]

Sounds pretty good to me. If you don't mind me asking, what does that go for? Just couriuos to see if I should have gone that way. I'm guessing the cost will be simular to what I paid once you include all the other good stuff it comes with.

[ACE]

I was wondering too, so I looked on the Ford racing site.
The M-6007-S58* is $2895.00. Not bad I think.
I'm thinking of ordering one after I see how CityHicks works out so Tony keep us up to date with this please.

[earlybronco72]

I'm guessing that if I was to buy all the extras I would be about $500 less than that, maybe. If there is a warrenty on it, it would definately be worth it. I also got a screaming deal on the machine work and assembly on mine. Nice find.

[CityHick]

Hey guys,
I actually got mine for $2550 shipped to my house. The place I got it from is gefracing.com and apparently they have the best prices on all the ford racing items. I think that compared to stock it'll be a nice boost in power and certainly torque. The cool thing about it is that it's a roller cam-ready block so I can swap in whatever roller cam I want should I decide to do that later down the road. From what I understand the heads are also fairly decent heads to get. I think I did alright but damn these Ford parts are expensive to a guy who is used to Chevy parts...

I will most certainly keep you all posted. I just installed the body lift today and I'm getting ready to to a test fit of the NP435/D20 T-case setup, among other things. I'm starting to think more about the 203 doubler but that will have to wait.

It feels good to be assembling again rather than disassembling. I feel like I'm going in the right direction again...

Tony

[highlander]

I think you will be pleased w/ that engine. The price sounds good to me. It sounds like the cam that comes in it will work well.

[CityHick]

I'm thinking of ordering one after I see how CityHicks works out so Tony keep us up to date with this please.

BTW... Ace, it may be a while before mine fires. There are still a bunch of parts I need to acquire before I make mine streetable again but I will certainly keep my progress log going here.

Tony

[FordCore]

Sweet........ when can i go for a ride.

[70EB]

That was the crate engine I put in mine. Started off with carb and then went to EFI. Just about finished up with it now.

[crawlin68]

VERY NICE!!! How does she run with the EFI vs. the carb?

[CityHick]

70EB... DAMN that's pretty. I'd be very curious to hear about how it runs with EFI, that's a very slick setup. How was it with a carb?

FordCore... You're more than welcome to stop by and help with the install! The way things are going my Bronco is going to be running sooner than expected. I'm shooting for driving the thing in mid to late summer but we'll see. I've dropped some good cash in the past month or so (suspension, crab cage, and now the engine) so I have to slow down on buying new stuff for a while.

I'm really going to want to paint the thing now but that definitely will have to wait. I'm going to wheel it a bit before painting it.

Tony

[70EB]

Ran great with a carb. The crate motor comes with the mechanical fuel pump block off plate on it but it does have the eccentric (sp?) to use a mechanical fuel pump.

The 4bbl intake that comes with it is very similar to the Performer 351 intake that Edelbrock makes.

Issues I ran into (very minor):

- stock timing marker tab that comes with the motor is on the pass side, right where the waterpump wants to exit on the EB. (I run the stock Mustang serp setup with the metal crossover tube - so no interference with the stock pointer) Just be aware of this when you go to install and come up with an alternate pointer and marks on the balancer (timing tape works)

- Rear driver's side valve cover clearance is very tight with the firewall. Motor comes with rather tall covers - you can get shorter ones like I did for some more room - excuse to get Bronco Script covers

Lessons learned:

Carb:

- I ran a 625cfm Road Demon. Was ALWAYS running rich. Recommend Truck Avenger or something similar. Probably a 525cfm is the best size carb. This is not a horsepower giant but rather a low end torque motor

- Ran it with an MSD 6A box. MSD makes an adapter plug to plug directly into the stock dizzy on the motor.

EFI:

- Should have done it sooner.
- Working thru a couple code issues that everyone (except Patrick) has.
- Lower intake and dizzy are the only differences than people who put EFI on a 302.
- Lower intake limited to FMS 351W GT-40 (lightning) or Edelbrock or Trickflow (don't recommend). If you go with the GT-40 then you can use the standard GT-40 upper, Corbra upper (mine) or Explorer upper. For Edelbrock, you can go 351 EFI lower to Edelbrock 5.0 upper.
- Saw the adapter BCB makes for stock truck EFI lower to Mustang upper - not sold
- Get the RJM (Ryan's) EFI harness - very simple, plug and play.

What i did was put the engine in and run it carb while I slowly collected EFI parts.

[CityHick]

Thanks for the hints and tips...
Now I really can't wait to get my engine. According to the freight company, it will arrive in Tracy, CA sometime tonight or tomorrow morning, and its quite possible that it'll end up in my garage by the weekend.

This site has so many members who have already been there, done that on so many different topics. It is such a great resource. It's nice to not have to reinvent the wheel.

I've been eyeing those Bronco script valve covers for a while now - this may be my excuse...

One more question, I saw that you painted your crate engine from that stock gray to Ford blue. What did you use? I'm a little leery of rattle-can paint over the factory applied paint but Ford Blue does look good.

Tony