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Project: chopped70

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  • #31
    Hey things are starting to really come along. But it does not look like you are ready to charge your shocks so why don't you swing on by and put my rig in the air for the first time

    Keep up the good work.

    Kevin
    71 EB 56K original miles stock for now!

    73 EB/rock buggy 351W EFI, Art Car C-4 manual VB w/ comp braking, 37 MTR's, 4-Link F&R, Fox Air 16", Full Hydro and now it runs!

    51 F1 PU with MII front end, T-Bird IRS

    70 C10 SWB, 92 LT1 vett motor, 700R4, power everything, great driving street rig.

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    • #32
      Hey, all I need is to figure out my rear shock mounts. I want to have multiple holes to adjust it's height. Just have to figure out a strong design...
      thanks alot..I forgot I had to fill up the nitro tank
      70 eb 60f 14b mild 302 435-klune 4-1-np205 and some dents

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      • #33
        FAWK you're too good at fabb'n



        P.S.cage is sweet!!! and sliders too ... i owe u for those!!
        {o===o}
        Originally posted by TBS-POPS
        EXCUSSSSSSE ME oh RUBIMASTER!!! I forgot how Awesome YOU ARE!!! I BEG your forgivness....
        Originally posted by CityHick
        I don't give probabilities in percentage format anymore

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        • #34
          In looking at your last few pic's I am thinking you may want to spread your front lower links apart just abit. It looks like it may want to swing side to side just a bit. Your links are real far apart at the diff and that is great but being so close together at the front will want to piviot just a bit. If you can get them about 12" apart I think you will be alot happier with the final project.

          Just my .02 worth Also with the adjustable shocks why try and build the mounts adjustable, just bump the shocks up abit. I have set mine up for about 6" of shaft at ride hieght but I will pump them up to about 10+" for snow runs and 40's

          Kevin
          71 EB 56K original miles stock for now!

          73 EB/rock buggy 351W EFI, Art Car C-4 manual VB w/ comp braking, 37 MTR's, 4-Link F&R, Fox Air 16", Full Hydro and now it runs!

          51 F1 PU with MII front end, T-Bird IRS

          70 C10 SWB, 92 LT1 vett motor, 700R4, power everything, great driving street rig.

          Comment


          • #35
            I used the 4-link calculator. I'll finish up welding the links today and cycle it to be sure. I already burned in those mounts in question so I'll check first.

            I just noticed I was measuring the y coordinate wrong
            Instead of measuring from the center out I was measuring the whole spread ie. 5" rather 2.5" and typing in a 5" y coordinate, which actually was a 10" spread. (wheres the retard smilie)

            Ok, now with my three adjustments I get this-
            5" spread
            0* at 75% antisquat
            -1* at 101%
            -2* at 118%

            With 10" spread
            0*
            0*
            -1*

            I'll cycle it but do you think it's worth changing???




            With the multiple mounting holes on the shock mounts I figured I could keep my desired up/down travel and springrate the same rather it being overly progressive(stiff) with the added nitro.
            70 eb 60f 14b mild 302 435-klune 4-1-np205 and some dents

            Comment


            • #36
              As far as the #'s go I have no idea what they mean. I just go by what looks right to me and what I have built or seen built. Also I am pretty good at looking at designs and working them out in my head. I just think it will handle better if you can get even just 4 or 5" more between them. What about adding one mount plate to the outer side of what you have now. Use the current out side mount as the new inside mount!

              Kevin
              71 EB 56K original miles stock for now!

              73 EB/rock buggy 351W EFI, Art Car C-4 manual VB w/ comp braking, 37 MTR's, 4-Link F&R, Fox Air 16", Full Hydro and now it runs!

              51 F1 PU with MII front end, T-Bird IRS

              70 C10 SWB, 92 LT1 vett motor, 700R4, power everything, great driving street rig.

              Comment


              • #37
                I got everything back on and raised one side with my high lift. I was only able to lift a foot or so, due to the rod ends binding. My center lines all still lined up and I couldn't see any obvious axle steer.

                The rod ends were binding because I just have washers holding them in rather misalignment spacers.(need to order those)

                I'll go check and see if I can use the outside plates as the new inners. Thats a pretty good idea. Hopefully the link lenght doesn't change to much.
                70 eb 60f 14b mild 302 435-klune 4-1-np205 and some dents

                Comment


                • #38
                  That idea won't work, without redoing everything. I would have cut off the lower mounts and turn them or cut down my upper links. Also, the lowers would then interfere with the upper mounts around the lower bolt hole. I think I try this and if it doesn't work out I'll make all new lower mounts and cut the bottom of the upper mounts off.
                  70 eb 60f 14b mild 302 435-klune 4-1-np205 and some dents

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                  • #39
                    Well, I pulled out the front springs and dropped the whole chassis down to the ride height I want. Ended up at 21.5" inches to the lowest points. Rear lower and front lower mounts. Those points are 3.5" below the frame rail. Unfortunatly, that height is not going to happen unless I run my exhaust crossover in front of the motor, cut out the stock engine crossmeber and tube the frame from the coil buckets forward.
                    I believe I can go another two to three inches lower before it bottoms out once I pull the drag link and tierod. Then, I'll set up my shock hoops for that to be the full compression on the airshocks. For ride height I'll set it for 6" of compression, which really is around 5", since the last inch of the shocks travel is basicly a bumpstop due to the progressive springrate.
                    70 eb 60f 14b mild 302 435-klune 4-1-np205 and some dents

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      I got my shocks mounted finally. I'll be bringing it over to my brothers house for the rest of the cage(It'll be better than his) very soon.
                      Hopefully our electrical panels will be coming in soon and I can get that squared away.

                      The front is pretty much where I want it and the rear is sitting high for now. I'll take out some oil and see how it sits/works when I have the rig done.
                      Attached Files
                      70 eb 60f 14b mild 302 435-klune 4-1-np205 and some dents

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                      • #41
                        Oh I found out my 18" travel shocks were really 16".... oh well. I think I still have more travel than I'll ever really need, you should have seen the rear end when I first filled the shocks. Must have been 2ft. higher.
                        70 eb 60f 14b mild 302 435-klune 4-1-np205 and some dents

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                        • #42
                          Sweet.. I can't wait to see it work...I'll be up to heading out with you on the maiden voyage...
                          “I would rather be exposed to the inconveniences attending too much liberty than to those attending too small a degree of it.” TJ

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                          • #43
                            getting closer
                            here is a teaser for you and me......probably will take me a few weeks to finish at my currents rate.
                            Attached Files
                            70 eb 60f 14b mild 302 435-klune 4-1-np205 and some dents

                            Comment


                            • #44
                              Shiat! Coming together nicely...
                              “I would rather be exposed to the inconveniences attending too much liberty than to those attending too small a degree of it.” TJ

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                              • #45
                                Well, I finished the cage yesterday, but everytime I tried my camera and pillaged sets of batteries, the damn thing would die. I made the seat mount bars for my new prp highbacks that came in last thursday. I made the x-brace on the b- pillar, went with a straight bar for the windsheild bar and v-supports for the that and just went with a simple single bar, like my brothers for the top of the cage. I'll post some new pics later this week when I clean the welds, take all the rust off every fawking tube and prime it.

                                Oh-yea A couple weeks ago the bronco cost me $2.5-3K and pretty looks When I was adding the cross bar for the b pillar. I was ratcheting the sides of the cage tight to the bar and just when I started to ratchet the tube fell out, hit something on the way down causing it to flip right into my mouth. This knocked in a fake tooth on a bridge and my k9(insizor sp.) 1" into my mouth. I looked at it in the mirror and bent it back into plase. Since this happened on friday I had to wait till monday to go to the dentist. The broken tooth ended up splitting the roots. Now everytime I drop a tube or something slips I drop and roll....
                                At least I have a very authentic holloween costume......as a red neck.
                                70 eb 60f 14b mild 302 435-klune 4-1-np205 and some dents

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