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Highlander's Bronco Upgrades

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  • Looks pretty sweet, what tubing are you using?
    --'73 Bronco----302, 3 spd, D44, 9", Tru-tracs, Twin sticks, 5.5" National Soft ride coils, F-100 pwr steering, 35x12.50's, tilt column, hurst shifter

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    • 2" x .120 wall HREW for most of it. the angled braces to the frame and the hoop for the jerry can will 1.5" x.120 wall HREW.
      69, 342 EFI, C4, NP203, D20, 4.5" SL, 2" BL, 4.88 9" 35 spline ARB, 4.88 HP D44, WAH, ARB, CTM's, front disc , 37 x 14.50 Toyo MT, Ram Assist, and rear 4-link

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      • Steve,

        Nice start to the bumper. I like how it wraps under the back of the rig. On the ends under the body, where you have a brace going back down to the frame, are you going to "plate" that, sort of like helbnd1's front bumper? Kind of like a mini boat-side, would make it more slippery, and I doubt you'd even see it walking by.

        Just a thought.



        Galen
        Attached Files
        Originally posted by 71BRONCO71 at Buck Island 6/25/11
        I can do that so much better myself..........1, 2, 3 GOODNIGHT!!!

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        • A few progress pictures:
          Attached Files
          69, 342 EFI, C4, NP203, D20, 4.5" SL, 2" BL, 4.88 9" 35 spline ARB, 4.88 HP D44, WAH, ARB, CTM's, front disc , 37 x 14.50 Toyo MT, Ram Assist, and rear 4-link

          Comment


          • That looks really nice Steve!

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            • Steve,

              Nice start to the bumper. I like how it wraps under the back of the rig. On the ends under the body, where you have a brace going back down to the frame, are you going to "plate" that, sort of like helbnd1's front bumper? Kind of like a mini boat-side, would make it more slippery, and I doubt you'd even see it walking by.

              Just a thought.



              Galen
              I looked at Helbnd1's bumpers a lot when designing mine, they look great. I didn't notice the plating in the front before, but that is a good idea. I was considering a flat plate gusset at the corners I could make it extend in much further, I also need to mount the shock reservoirs on the angled braces, hopefully out of harms way.
              I also spent some time studying Familyman's bumper and the one he built on Mr. R's rebuild thread.
              I didn't want to "boat-side" my rear corners, although that looks good and would provide some more clearance. I wanted it stay somewhat stock looking. So I am just going to do a straight bob in the rear and maybe someday I will make another front bumper and do about the same up there.
              Last edited by highlander; 08-10-2007, 04:49 PM.
              69, 342 EFI, C4, NP203, D20, 4.5" SL, 2" BL, 4.88 9" 35 spline ARB, 4.88 HP D44, WAH, ARB, CTM's, front disc , 37 x 14.50 Toyo MT, Ram Assist, and rear 4-link

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              • .....I didn't want to "boat-side" my rear corners, although that looks good and would provide some more clearance. I wanted it stay somwhat stock looking.....
                Yeah, I didn't mean for you to cut any more of the body away, just plate the underside of the corner/brace area just to make it a little slippery and maybe add a little strength. Looks really nice.
                Originally posted by 71BRONCO71 at Buck Island 6/25/11
                I can do that so much better myself..........1, 2, 3 GOODNIGHT!!!

                Comment


                • That looks really nice Steve!
                  Thanks, Patrick.
                  By the way the Harbor freight tube notcher I bought is a POS. For one you can't notch 2" at 60° as the box claims. The clamp only rotates to ~55°. And even at 55° the hole saw will cut into the tube clamp before going all the way through the tube. It is only good for about 30° with 2". Plus I had to shim the tube clamp out so it would cut in the center of the tube, it was offset almost a 1/16." It works OK for straight notches and any thing under 30°. It would probably work at higher angles with smaller tubing. It really doesn't need a drill press either it cut just fine using my 1/2" drill.

                  Well as usual you get what you pay for! It is worth how little it costs.
                  Last edited by highlander; 08-10-2007, 05:02 PM.
                  69, 342 EFI, C4, NP203, D20, 4.5" SL, 2" BL, 4.88 9" 35 spline ARB, 4.88 HP D44, WAH, ARB, CTM's, front disc , 37 x 14.50 Toyo MT, Ram Assist, and rear 4-link

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                  • My buddy that has that same HF notcher was saying the same thing about the notch not being centered in the tube unless he spaced out the clamp. Well that is dissapointing especially if it won't go beyond 30 degrees.

                    Hey Galen, how much was that notcher that you bought? Your's worked really well!!

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                    • .....how much was that notcher that you bought? Your's worked really well!!
                      It is a JD2 TN-100, and I paid $200 for it. If I had it to do over, I'd get the Notch Master for $249, it cuts offset notches. Both only 50*, but very well built. I like to find a deal when I can, but I've never regretted buying nice tools.

                      Last edited by 720Racer; 08-10-2007, 05:48 PM.
                      Originally posted by 71BRONCO71 at Buck Island 6/25/11
                      I can do that so much better myself..........1, 2, 3 GOODNIGHT!!!

                      Comment


                      • Steve very nice job on the rear bumper. What did you decide to go with for your swing point? Looks really nice. Keep up the good work.


                        I have to agree with Galen. I have the Notch Master and it works great. The only problem can be to get it re-centered after doing an off-set notch. If you get this one, mark the center point, and you are golden

                        FM <><
                        Last edited by Familyman; 08-11-2007, 10:04 AM.
                        72EB, one-ton fab project that will never end

                        Be on your guard; stand firm in the faith; be men of courage; be strong. Do everything in love.
                        1 Cor 16:13-14

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                        • Steve very nice job on the rear bumper. What did you decide to go with for your swing point? Looks really nice. Keep up the good work.
                          FM <><
                          Thanks, If by swing point you mean hinge, I orderd two of the Rockstomper (1000# trailer spindle) hinges. But after ordering them I read about some people on Pirate that have had the spindles snap, which worries me some. I know of several people who have been running these for years with no problems. I am going to use them any way but will try to make the latches carry a lot of the load. I am thinking about using a limiting strap to keep it from swinging to far open that will also double as a safety strap just in case the spindle does snap it will still be connected to the bumper.
                          I am curious how you connected the spindles to your bumpers, that is the one part I haven't worked out yet. I won't get the spindles until Tuesday or so.
                          69, 342 EFI, C4, NP203, D20, 4.5" SL, 2" BL, 4.88 9" 35 spline ARB, 4.88 HP D44, WAH, ARB, CTM's, front disc , 37 x 14.50 Toyo MT, Ram Assist, and rear 4-link

                          Comment


                          • Those are the same spindles I use. I am curious how they broke a spindle? Was the gate opened? or secured in place? Anyhow, I attach my spindles by drilling a 1 1/4" hole thru 2 pieces of plate that are attached to the highest and lowest part of the tube or area that it will attach too. I tend to use 1/4" or thicker for these plates so that the spidle has as much surface area as possible. I also run an additional plate from the top plate to the bottom plate for support. Then just weld high and low and you should be fine.
                            I recently found a design to secure the loose side of the tube that is bombproof and should help support any load that the spindle bears. I enclosed a pic of a tire carrier I just built and I couldn't believe how solid it felt. The design is not mine I saw it at Adam Ants shop in Elk Grove so I would like to give him the credit.

                            FM <><
                            Attached Files
                            72EB, one-ton fab project that will never end

                            Be on your guard; stand firm in the faith; be men of courage; be strong. Do everything in love.
                            1 Cor 16:13-14

                            Comment


                            • In regard to a limit strap you can also just weld a tab to stop the swing of the carrier. I have done this on the last 2 and it works great but I would like to see what you come up with especially if it is adjustable.

                              FM <><
                              72EB, one-ton fab project that will never end

                              Be on your guard; stand firm in the faith; be men of courage; be strong. Do everything in love.
                              1 Cor 16:13-14

                              Comment


                              • Thats one serious handle for the swing out. I've used my HF notcher for 3 cages and a bunch of tube work. Definately wears out quick though. Ended up bending mine in half when the bit "walked" over the tube. Still worth the money.
                                67 Bronco blue - LS 6.0, 6l90, & atlas (working on it)
                                69 Bronco red - F/I 302,c-4,36" TSL S/X( sitting next to a barn)
                                69 Bronco Yellow - TBI 350,th350, 203/205, Dana 60, 14 bolt, 4-link rear, 3 link front,full hydro, body narrowed 8", 39.9 Iroks on Walker Evans
                                79 CJ 5 360 v8 t18 33's locked & sprung over (sitting in a barn since 2000)
                                67 Camaro Lq4,built 200r4,Hotchkis suspension(work in progre$$)

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