testing turns into thrashing !!!!

[crawlin68]

I would do it. Now all we need is an expert to show us how.

[Delta 4 Wheel]

Like Aaron said, MARK HARRIS, where are you! You hold the class, we will feed you well my friend.

[earlybronco72]

I will just put my two complaints about mine in here. Don't use radius arm bushings for the frame mounts on the lower links. They crush under the forces. That is my only complaint about them, but you can use one for a three link on top of the pumpkin. The second thing is don't use TJ coils. They are too soft. Otherwise I love mine.

[Familyman]

I bet it would even be cheaper than buying new rear springs.. Coils and tubing must me cheaper.. I'm In!! Marc where are you??? Mass buy!! Group Sale!! Production line.. !!

To build a 3 or 4 link with quality DOM or Chromo would be double the cost. Start pricing rod ends alone and you will see. Now as for Marks 3 link that is probably cheaper then my repair will cost. I asked the guy how much for custom built leaf springs for the rear and the answer was $500 a corner
No thanks!.

If I had the time I would do a 3 or 4 link with coils but I can't right now I have too many family obligations. Maybe this winter I will push the rear back and link it but thats the soonest I will.

I figured out that I can use bushing I just have to cut them to my spec width since I don't want to cut off the axle mount (2" wide). I will probably have to rebuild the whole thing since it might come up a wee short after I cut the old joints off. I will let you all know. Thanks for hammering me on the bushing between you guys and pricing all the parts $$$ it would cost to go heims I am definitely going bushings.

the psg leaf spring is repaired and back in. The driveline will go in after the axle is pulled, cleaned, welded, braced and painted. Then just need to get that anti-wrap bar set back up and we should be good to go.

Just FYI putting in those 5.5" rear springs is a pain. I hads to use a rachet strap, bottle jack and lots of love to get those in.

[Daddy4zack]

I was acually thinking of Marc Delorinzo... Shit his rear twists allover!! I mean his Bronco......
A

[bent70]

To link the rear....in my case:
4 Heims qa1 10-12 $100
4 weld in bungs $ 40
poly bushing joints $ 48
2"x.375 wall dom 8' $250
1.5x .250 wall dom 8' $ 100
Misc fasteners $ 20
1/4 plate 6" wide 10' $ 30
psc rear link batwing $30

So roughly $618 +/- $100
Then springs/shocks...etc.

Wow, I didn't realize it was that much, good thing I didn't buy everything at once.

Next time I'll just replace the leaf springs.

[bent70]

Good choice on the bushings. I've cut mine to fit too and all works fine from an axle wrap bar to spring pivots and suspension arms. Plus there cheap and expendable.

[Familyman]

Thanks for the cost breakdown Bent70. I have thought about linking but if I can get the rear antiwrap to hold/protect the springs then I will probably not link it until I am going to stretch the wheelbase and kill 2 birds with one stone. Nice choice on tubing for your links I was looking at that and then some chromo but pricy.
how do you like the linked rear now that its done??

[bent70]

I'm still putting it togather....I work rather slow

[Mike]

I built the bar to be able to move with the suspension hence the shakle at the front of the bar.

Yes the shackle lets the bar move front to back with the rear axle as the leafs flatten out. But as the leafs flatten out they also change the pinion angle, your bar does't want to move that way so those bushings are binding. Take one of the two bar bolts out at the axle mount and then flex the rig, you'll see all this. It's not a big deal, it's just that those bushings never get a rest. That's why I went with cheap to replace. Mine is all bound up at rest becasue the springs have settled. Makes it a real bitch R&R' ing the bar.

I'm in the same boat wanting to link the back but with no time to test and tweak it. If somebody built a beefy kit that had good street manners and didn't hang down below the frame too much I'd probably just buy it.

[crawlin68]

If somebody built a beefy kit that had good street manners and didn't hang down below the frame too much I'd probably just buy it.

That's what I don't like about most link systems that I see. They hang down too far below the frame rails. I've done a lot of work and spent a lot time and money to make the belly of my EB flat. I don't want all of that to go to waste by installing a link system that hangs down too far.

[earlybronco72]

Patrick, next time we are at the same place you will have to check mine out. My arms seldomly get hit, and they are tucked pretty far up. The road manners are really good. I can run down the freeway at 80+ mph, and even let go of the steering wheel. I do have some body roll, but a lightweight swaybar on the rear would probably solve that issue. I actually think it drives better now than it did with the leafs.

Here's a link to some picks of the suspension. I rebuilt the upper link. That one was just for positioning. The upper is now also made out of the 2X3 box also.
http://www.broncofix.com/viewtopic.p...er=asc&start=0

[Daddy4zack]

Marc how much did you spend on yours?? Just woundering..


Aaron

[House]

Weren't there some pics awhile back of someone that used CAGE arms front and rear?

[Familyman]

Yes the shackle lets the bar move front to back with the rear axle as the leafs flatten out. But as the leafs flatten out they also change the pinion angle, your bar does't want to move that way so those bushings are binding.

Thanks, I wondered if there was some other binding since I tried to accomadate for the suspension movement. So if I understand this correctly you are stating the shackle only helps as the suspension stretches down from normal sitting height, but from normal sitting height flexed up into the frame the bushing are (at the bottom mount) being pulled apart. Right ? It seems to me that the top of the wrap bar should be nearly parelell with the ground to keep this movement to a minimum. It seems to me the steeper the angle of the antiwrap the more this motion would cause binding. What do you think??

If I build a rear link system I will copy Marc's it is simple, cheap and bombproof.

Hey Crawling68. How does that single tube work and how did you chose the length ?