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Re: Explorer serp setups?
OK boyos... Figured I'd share some info on how to pull one of these suckers for the guys that want to hit a pick-n-pull since I've done 7!
First off, stop by Kragen, Napa or any chain parts store on your way to the yard and get the "DELUXE" fan removal kit! Your experience will be simplified 10 fold... These places usually have loaner kits. They'll charge you full price (about $100 at Kragen for kit #60) but they refund 100% of that when you return it... Don't get the cheaper version! It has the same description about pulling viscous clutch fans but it DOESN'T work. It does not have the right sized wrenches in it. Yep, made this mistake already...
For your tool box, take a full compliment of 1/2" and 3/8" drive SAE & metric sockets to include 5pt deep sockets for your 1/2". Also take a full set of SAE & Metric end wrenches. The main metric stuff you'll need is 10, 13, 18mm. I used a hacksaw to cut through the large A/C line about 8" from the pump. You'll need a puller for the harmonic (I used a 3 jawed puller). Also you're a fool if you go into the yard not packing a 3# hammer, vice grips, sharp knife, wire cutters and a bunch of screwdrivers! Take a gasket scraper as well to help free up the timing cover.
OK, so we've talked the "english as a 2nd language" forklift driver into hauling our big A$$ toolbox to the very back of the yard where that cherry 5.0 Exploder sits that Fungus hasn't got his dirty little hands on yet... Once you're in there, the first thing is to take out the radiator and fan shroud. I started this expedition by carefully unbolting everything and eventually went to taking some bolt cutters and hacking through lines like you read about (keep in mind, 1st set took me 3 hrs and the last 2 sets took 1 hr each)... There are cooler lines on both sides of the radiator so if time is of the escence, cut them suckers! 10mm bolts hold the shroud on so get'em off. Also, tranny cooler lines run underneath the radiator on the passenger side through some clips on the radiator. Pry these loose with a large screwdriver so the radiator slides out. Once everything is free it slides right out the top. Take the shroud out and now you've got a clear shot at your new serp setup!
Use your fan removal kit to get that thing out of the way first! It has regular threads (lefty loosey)! The large square wrench fits over the bolts on the pulley to hold the water pump shaft in place while you find the correct wrench from the kit to loosen the fan nut. Really easy with this kit! You can remove this setup with the fan still attached (did it 4 times), just more of a pain...
Once the fan is out of the picture I moved to the P/S and A/C pumps and bracket. Cut both the A/C lines (hacksaw for large & knife for small underneath). Cut the wires to the clutch (I left as much wire as I could prior to it disappearing into the loom). I cut the P/S return line just short of the reservoir (you can leave it if you want this hose just disconnect the other end) and left the hi-press line connected. Once all the lines & wires are free (except the hi-press line) you can unbolt the 3 bolts holding the bracket on with your 1/2" ratchet and 11/16" deep socket. Rotate the whole unit up towards the intake when its free and set it up there to where you have access underneath. You'll see the oil filter/ cooler unit down there. Cut the hoses and remove this. You've now just exposed the steering box underneath to loosen the other end of the hi-press line. If you don't want this end of the hose then just cut that sucker and save the trouble. I didn't know what guys would want as far as hoses or fittings so I carefully undid the hose. The larger 2 lines take an 18mm open end wrench and the 2 smaller ones are 13mm. You have to start with the top 18mm fitting and work around the box counter clockwise to finally be able to get your wrench on the one line you really want. Only takes a couple minutes. Now you've got the P/S pump w/ hi-press line, A/C pump and bracket sitting in your cart.
Alternator is next. Cut the wires leaving as much as you can to build your own harness. '95-'97s have 4 bolts holding the alternator bracket (one is under the tensioner) while the '98s I pulled only had 3 (minus the one under the tensioner). Take these 3 or 4 bolts out (2 sizes here, 11/16" & 9/16") and set your alternator/ bracket assembly in yer cart!
The Harmonic takes a 15/16" socket. I backed it all the way out then threaded it back in about 3 turns to give me the most pulling room with my puller. These are a breeze... Poot eet en da cot!
Now comes the really fun part if you're dealing with a rig that has dayglow pink paint in the engine bay... the timing cover/ water pump. There are 3 bolts holding the water pump onto the timing cover that DON'T go through to the block. Try and ID these bolts (its not hard) and leave them in. I pulled the pump and TC as a unit when I could. Take all the timing cover bolts out. The 2 outer most bolts are a MUTH%$ FU(*^&!!!!!!! (they're damn near welded in there due to the heat caused from seizing that beautiful roller motor w/ GT-40 (p) heads!) I was lucky and only broke 4 bolts out of the 7 setups I removed! The driver's side one is the worst. What I found worked the best was a 1/2" box end wrench and a longer box end (like 3/4") to slip over the open end for leverage. This keeps the leverage right on the bolt head and not out towards you like a deep socket would. WD-40 helped loosen these up a bit too. If you can, work that driver's side bolt back and forth a bit just to help it along. If you just reaf on it and go for it, you'll break it!
Option 1: If you don't break any you're only minutes away... All the timing cover bolts are 1/2" with exception of the 2 outers underneath on the oil pan (3/8"). Make sure they're all out (don't forget the one under the timing pointer/ sensor) and work you're gasket scraper between the block and TC. There are two bushings on the 2 outermost bolt holes on the bottom front so be aware that they can hold things up a bit, not bad though... Now you've just pulled your Exploder serp setup and are ready for a KEG of BEER, shower and a nap!
Oh wait...
Option 2:
You just snapped that driver's side bolt right the FU&@ off!!!!!
Go get a gatorade, take a piss, smoke a cigarette, whatever... you'll need the break...
NOW take the 3 bolts out of the water pump you left in there, thinking it'd be easy, and get it out of the way for the good times... This is where you'll be a needin' them there vice grips and such... No easy way to do this and it SUCKS!!! Make sure ALL the other bolts are out of the timing cover and it is ready to come off with exception of this one busted ass bolt! Keep working that bolt back and forth with the vice grips. It'll take several tries to even get the vice grips to bite and the bolt to budge but keep after it. DO NOT TRY TO PRY THE TIMING COVER OFF WITH THIS BOLT STILL IN!!!!! Won't work and you'll be searching for another explorer to do it all over again just to get that damn timing cover ($159 new!)...don't ask how I know...
Once you get that bolt traveling in the right direction it will bring the timing cover away from the block for you. Once the bolt is out with TC attached you can drive the busted bolt out with hammer and punch. Get a 5/16"x 18 thread grade 8 bolt from your hardware store the right length and you're good as new!
CHECKOUT:
Don't think worse of me but I've been gouged enough by these yards at times to take a few liberties when I can... Before you even roll your goodies away from whats left of that Sploder, bolt as much back together as you can. TC, water pump and fan should all be back together as one unit with the pointer/ sensor attached. This is ALL a "water pump and clutch fan assembly"... If the girl buys it or is just taken aback by your stunning manliness covered in grease and sweat, you'll get a free timing cover out of the deal. The alternator is JUST an alternator = FREE bracket, tensioner & idler pulley. P/S pump & A/C pump (don't mention the bracket!)... See what I'm gettin' at? Help yourselves out a bit and pick the dumbest looking (or best looking depending on the level of mochismo you've acquired on this quest) chick at the counter and smile lots even though you've lost a pint of blood, your arms are cramping from dehydration and you can't close your hands from your vice grip experience
... If she sees through your masquerade and itemizes EVERYTHING you can be lookin' at about $250 worth of stuff. If you TOTALLY shmoozed her over and did a good job selling your "assemblies" you could be looking at about $180!
Go home, have a
and get that 
on your MOTO!!!
I think that's it fellas... good hunting, good luck and have fun. Don't forget to pre-stock your fridge with some fine malty beverages before you go chasing unicorns...
If you come up short or don't think you want the hassle I've still got 2...
Fungus
OK boyos... Figured I'd share some info on how to pull one of these suckers for the guys that want to hit a pick-n-pull since I've done 7!
First off, stop by Kragen, Napa or any chain parts store on your way to the yard and get the "DELUXE" fan removal kit! Your experience will be simplified 10 fold... These places usually have loaner kits. They'll charge you full price (about $100 at Kragen for kit #60) but they refund 100% of that when you return it... Don't get the cheaper version! It has the same description about pulling viscous clutch fans but it DOESN'T work. It does not have the right sized wrenches in it. Yep, made this mistake already...
For your tool box, take a full compliment of 1/2" and 3/8" drive SAE & metric sockets to include 5pt deep sockets for your 1/2". Also take a full set of SAE & Metric end wrenches. The main metric stuff you'll need is 10, 13, 18mm. I used a hacksaw to cut through the large A/C line about 8" from the pump. You'll need a puller for the harmonic (I used a 3 jawed puller). Also you're a fool if you go into the yard not packing a 3# hammer, vice grips, sharp knife, wire cutters and a bunch of screwdrivers! Take a gasket scraper as well to help free up the timing cover.
OK, so we've talked the "english as a 2nd language" forklift driver into hauling our big A$$ toolbox to the very back of the yard where that cherry 5.0 Exploder sits that Fungus hasn't got his dirty little hands on yet... Once you're in there, the first thing is to take out the radiator and fan shroud. I started this expedition by carefully unbolting everything and eventually went to taking some bolt cutters and hacking through lines like you read about (keep in mind, 1st set took me 3 hrs and the last 2 sets took 1 hr each)... There are cooler lines on both sides of the radiator so if time is of the escence, cut them suckers! 10mm bolts hold the shroud on so get'em off. Also, tranny cooler lines run underneath the radiator on the passenger side through some clips on the radiator. Pry these loose with a large screwdriver so the radiator slides out. Once everything is free it slides right out the top. Take the shroud out and now you've got a clear shot at your new serp setup!
Use your fan removal kit to get that thing out of the way first! It has regular threads (lefty loosey)! The large square wrench fits over the bolts on the pulley to hold the water pump shaft in place while you find the correct wrench from the kit to loosen the fan nut. Really easy with this kit! You can remove this setup with the fan still attached (did it 4 times), just more of a pain...
Once the fan is out of the picture I moved to the P/S and A/C pumps and bracket. Cut both the A/C lines (hacksaw for large & knife for small underneath). Cut the wires to the clutch (I left as much wire as I could prior to it disappearing into the loom). I cut the P/S return line just short of the reservoir (you can leave it if you want this hose just disconnect the other end) and left the hi-press line connected. Once all the lines & wires are free (except the hi-press line) you can unbolt the 3 bolts holding the bracket on with your 1/2" ratchet and 11/16" deep socket. Rotate the whole unit up towards the intake when its free and set it up there to where you have access underneath. You'll see the oil filter/ cooler unit down there. Cut the hoses and remove this. You've now just exposed the steering box underneath to loosen the other end of the hi-press line. If you don't want this end of the hose then just cut that sucker and save the trouble. I didn't know what guys would want as far as hoses or fittings so I carefully undid the hose. The larger 2 lines take an 18mm open end wrench and the 2 smaller ones are 13mm. You have to start with the top 18mm fitting and work around the box counter clockwise to finally be able to get your wrench on the one line you really want. Only takes a couple minutes. Now you've got the P/S pump w/ hi-press line, A/C pump and bracket sitting in your cart.
Alternator is next. Cut the wires leaving as much as you can to build your own harness. '95-'97s have 4 bolts holding the alternator bracket (one is under the tensioner) while the '98s I pulled only had 3 (minus the one under the tensioner). Take these 3 or 4 bolts out (2 sizes here, 11/16" & 9/16") and set your alternator/ bracket assembly in yer cart!
The Harmonic takes a 15/16" socket. I backed it all the way out then threaded it back in about 3 turns to give me the most pulling room with my puller. These are a breeze... Poot eet en da cot!
Now comes the really fun part if you're dealing with a rig that has dayglow pink paint in the engine bay... the timing cover/ water pump. There are 3 bolts holding the water pump onto the timing cover that DON'T go through to the block. Try and ID these bolts (its not hard) and leave them in. I pulled the pump and TC as a unit when I could. Take all the timing cover bolts out. The 2 outer most bolts are a MUTH%$ FU(*^&!!!!!!! (they're damn near welded in there due to the heat caused from seizing that beautiful roller motor w/ GT-40 (p) heads!) I was lucky and only broke 4 bolts out of the 7 setups I removed! The driver's side one is the worst. What I found worked the best was a 1/2" box end wrench and a longer box end (like 3/4") to slip over the open end for leverage. This keeps the leverage right on the bolt head and not out towards you like a deep socket would. WD-40 helped loosen these up a bit too. If you can, work that driver's side bolt back and forth a bit just to help it along. If you just reaf on it and go for it, you'll break it!
Option 1: If you don't break any you're only minutes away... All the timing cover bolts are 1/2" with exception of the 2 outers underneath on the oil pan (3/8"). Make sure they're all out (don't forget the one under the timing pointer/ sensor) and work you're gasket scraper between the block and TC. There are two bushings on the 2 outermost bolt holes on the bottom front so be aware that they can hold things up a bit, not bad though... Now you've just pulled your Exploder serp setup and are ready for a KEG of BEER, shower and a nap!
Oh wait...
Option 2:
You just snapped that driver's side bolt right the FU&@ off!!!!!
Go get a gatorade, take a piss, smoke a cigarette, whatever... you'll need the break...
NOW take the 3 bolts out of the water pump you left in there, thinking it'd be easy, and get it out of the way for the good times... This is where you'll be a needin' them there vice grips and such... No easy way to do this and it SUCKS!!! Make sure ALL the other bolts are out of the timing cover and it is ready to come off with exception of this one busted ass bolt! Keep working that bolt back and forth with the vice grips. It'll take several tries to even get the vice grips to bite and the bolt to budge but keep after it. DO NOT TRY TO PRY THE TIMING COVER OFF WITH THIS BOLT STILL IN!!!!! Won't work and you'll be searching for another explorer to do it all over again just to get that damn timing cover ($159 new!)...don't ask how I know...
Once you get that bolt traveling in the right direction it will bring the timing cover away from the block for you. Once the bolt is out with TC attached you can drive the busted bolt out with hammer and punch. Get a 5/16"x 18 thread grade 8 bolt from your hardware store the right length and you're good as new!CHECKOUT:
Don't think worse of me but I've been gouged enough by these yards at times to take a few liberties when I can... Before you even roll your goodies away from whats left of that Sploder, bolt as much back together as you can. TC, water pump and fan should all be back together as one unit with the pointer/ sensor attached. This is ALL a "water pump and clutch fan assembly"... If the girl buys it or is just taken aback by your stunning manliness covered in grease and sweat, you'll get a free timing cover out of the deal. The alternator is JUST an alternator = FREE bracket, tensioner & idler pulley. P/S pump & A/C pump (don't mention the bracket!)... See what I'm gettin' at? Help yourselves out a bit and pick the dumbest looking (or best looking depending on the level of mochismo you've acquired on this quest) chick at the counter and smile lots even though you've lost a pint of blood, your arms are cramping from dehydration and you can't close your hands from your vice grip experience
... If she sees through your masquerade and itemizes EVERYTHING you can be lookin' at about $250 worth of stuff. If you TOTALLY shmoozed her over and did a good job selling your "assemblies" you could be looking at about $180!Go home, have a
and get that on your MOTO!!!I think that's it fellas... good hunting, good luck and have fun. Don't forget to pre-stock your fridge with some fine malty beverages before you go chasing unicorns...
If you come up short or don't think you want the hassle I've still got 2...Fungus
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