“Blue” 69

[pippinmader]

WOW, definitely some broken teeth!

[M_luther]

Couple of questions I have that I know some of you have already tackled. Picked up a Dakota digital gauge and was wondering how you hooked up the VSS signal for both the gauge and the Explorer? I see Tom’s Bronco sells a custom speedo cable but it is on back order. Second question is I wanted to verify that the temp sender replaces the one in the drivers side of the intake vs. the one by the thermostat. Third unrelated questions is I want to put a fuel pressure gauge on my fuel rail at the shrader valve port. Does anyone know what thread size this is? I was hoping it’s 1/8 npt but I’m assuming it isn’t.

[904Bronco]

The VSS can create the signal for Both. You don't need the cable if you are running a digital gauge...

There are two different VSS you can buy, one accepts a cable and the other is blocked off, for no cable. I have found them pretty cheap on Rock auto or Summit in the Standard brand.

Can't remember what Trans you are running, 4R70W? If so, it has its own OSS to create the signal it needs... It has been a while, but I don't believe the Explorer harness needs a VSS, only the Mustang harness benefits from having one.

Yes, temp gauge sending unit goes into port on the drivers side of the intake. Do not over tighten and crack the intake. I believe you will use one of their brass bushings to reduce the size down.

Don't remember the port size, can you use one of the test gauges and leave it in place? I am assuming you might be attaching a sending unit to it for a gauge inside? Would not advise a mechanical that runs inside the cab...

Doug.

[M_luther]

Thanks Doug. I am running the AX15 5 speed and Garry wired in a mustang VSS I believe so that there would not be any stall issues. So I currently have the mustang style VSS plug with cable. The Dakota came with a VSS that does not have a cable port, but their wiring cable is sealed and would not be easily spliced. The other option I was considering was removing the plug off the Explorer harness end (transmission end) and routing to the cab with the Dakota cable and putting the two together at the input to the Dakota module. Just wasn’t sure if this would cause any signal issues.

I was just going to put a mechanical fuel gauge on the port in the engine compartment and leave it there. Probably not necessary but I have seen it on other rigs and liked the idea of knowing what the fuel pressure is. I’m also going to be swapping out my motor at the beginning of the year and I also wanted to verify that the pressure is meeting what Garry set up my tune for.

As alway thanks for the help.

Mike

[M_luther]

Answer to my fuel rail thread size question is 1/16” npt. Not a common size to find locally but easy to get off Amazon. Fuel pressure gauge installed.

[904Bronco]

I have seen them installed long term on an engine... But to me it is an open port waiting to happen, dumping fuel on a hot engine.

I only leave mine on when doing start ups of new engines, or doing diagnostics... Just offering a suggestion, not knowing your plans.. D.

[71BRONCO71]

I see 1/16 and 1/8 fitting snap all the time at work due to vibrations.

[M_luther]

Sorry for the delayed response, I do appreciate the input regarding my fuel pressure gauge question. A little back ground, after the WH roundup I started to experience a little engine trouble. Running a little rough, using a little oil, and a slight tick sound at idle that I could never figure out. Continued to drive and trouble shoot with no major issues, just some minor oil usage and the rough engine/ occasional stumble on acceleration up until the end of July when we took a family trip to Bass Lake. Drove the bronco into Yosemite from Base lake and back and noticed some smoke coming out the tail pipe on the return trip. Checked the oil and it didn’t register on the dip stick. Two quarts low. Did the same 60 mile round trip into Yosemite the next day and used another two quarts of oil. When I got home ran compression check and blow by test. 1,5 and 8 cylinders were all low. Decided to just get a new crate motor and be done with it. I had Garry (EFI Guy) flash program my spare computer and he recommended I go to 24# injectors. Just wanted to verify that the rail pressure was what he said it need to be as well. Now that I have verified, I will remove the gauge as suggested for safety. Engine is now in and running. Have the first 500 miles on it and all is good.

[904Bronco]

Sorry you had to go to the new engine route, I remember your troubles getting to the Round up... Looks Good Mike!

[M_luther]

Thanks Doug. Always hate to fork out all that $$ but it does run so good now. Hopefully the issues are now behind me. I did find a crack in my upper intake manifold. Not sure if that was the source of my issues, but I’m sure it wasn’t helping anything. The explorer parts are getting a little harder to find now. Luckily the very small dismantler I have near me still had one V8 explorer left and it still had the upper intake.