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Think of it as it "was" expensive now that all the big $$ is on and the rest are only "minor" upgrades. Looks good by the way.
67 Bronco blue - LS 6.0, 6l90, & atlas (working on it)
69 Bronco red - F/I 302,c-4,36" TSL S/X( sitting next to a barn)
69 Bronco Yellow - TBI 350,th350, 203/205, Dana 60, 14 bolt, 4-link rear, 3 link front,full hydro, body narrowed 8", 39.9 Iroks on Walker Evans
79 CJ 5 360 v8 t18 33's locked & sprung over (sitting in a barn since 2000)
67 Camaro Lq4,built 200r4,Hotchkis suspension(work in progre$$)
Well its about time I spill the beans.
35 KM2
Cage Arms
ARB rear
High output ARB comp with Air up kit
31 spline rear axles
Spartan Front Locker
4.57 Gears
Rock L.E.D. Lights
New jeep Rear seat
Tuned Motor
Still need to weld on the New shock towers I have laying in the garage. Almost ready for the 'Con Run. All of this happened because I was looking at my tires and noticed that I would need new ones by next summer.
Here ya go
Yeah got alot of red wires running down the frame there... Was there a sale on red wire?
Looks good, as said: From here on out it is just minor upgrades...
2002 F250 Superduty, 7.3 241,500 miles and counting
1979 Bronco, 351M,NP435,4:11's on 33's
2016 Race Red Shelby GT350
Are the radius arm wedge bushing thingies in the right way? Front axle pinion angle seems low. Or do you have a non-cv driveshaft?
I say we play follow the leader with Ryan up front.
Are the radius arm wedge bushing thingies in the right way? Front axle pinion angle seems low. Or do you have a non-cv driveshaft?
It might be the pic but the bushings are in correct, I swear. It's a 3.5 lift with 2* bushings and the cage arms say that they have 4* built in. and there is a cv on the shaft
Question to the masses. If I need my front pinion to rotate up, do I need less degree in the bushings? I measured from the ball joints and i was about 2-3 degrees off of 0*. Currently I have 2* bushings with the cage arms and 3.5 coils.
{o===o}
Originally posted by TBS-POPS
EXCUSSSSSSE ME oh RUBIMASTER!!! I forgot how Awesome YOU ARE!!! I BEG your forgivness....
Originally posted by CityHick
I don't give probabilities in percentage format anymore
Question to the masses. If I need my front pinion to rotate up, do I need less degree in the bushings? I measured from the ball joints and i was about 2-3 degrees off of 0*. Currently I have 2* bushings with the cage arms and 3.5 coils.
Yes. To tilt the pinion up you sacrifice caster without doing something crazy like rotating your inner-c's. I have 2" more lift than you and I believe 2* bushings on cage arms. My front pinion angle is crappy, but you have to realize this is not an axle you're sending power to every day.
Mine's typically only in 4wd at very low speeds, and the front d/l will vibrate when I get up above about 20mph. If your axle can travel without binding your upper and lower u-joints then don't worry about it. Front u-joint life will be shortened, but keeping the joint lubed and carrying a spare you'll be fine. I spoke to a driveline shop about this and they agreed... not ideal for a primary drive axle but workable for a front axle.
Jack up your Bronco's front end (by the frame) and let the axle droop all the way down. Now try to spin your front driveline. If it spins freely, you're good to go, but it binds then you'll need to raise your pinion up a little. Even if it doesn't bind with a static droop, it could still bind up on the trail after your suspension warms up and there is force on the front axle to flex, so carry at least one spare u-joint.
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