Can you reverse bleed the hydro boost system? I did this with my system and it worked better for me although it’s a conventional setup.
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67 Bronco blue - LS 6.0, 6l90, & atlas (working on it)
69 Bronco red - F/I 302,c-4,36" TSL S/X( sitting next to a barn)
69 Bronco Yellow - TBI 350,th350, 203/205, Dana 60, 14 bolt, 4-link rear, 3 link front,full hydro, body narrowed 8", 39.9 Iroks on Walker Evans
79 CJ 5 360 v8 t18 33's locked & sprung over (sitting in a barn since 2000)
67 Camaro Lq4,built 200r4,Hotchkis suspension(work in progre$$)
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Originally posted by 69crawler View PostCan you reverse bleed the hydro boost system? I did this with my system and it worked better for me although it’s a conventional setup.
do whatcha gotta do though.
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Originally posted by ba123 View Post
Like you mean with the vacuum at the bleeders? I’m sure you could and it might work, but that’s really not an ideal way. It is just a brake system though and you can always do it old school, results just may vary. Might work great, might not.
do whatcha gotta do though.
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Originally posted by ba123 View PostNever heard of that before, but lemme think…push fluid from 4 different dirty brake calipers, INTO the master cylinder or clean fresh fluid from one master cylinder and out the dirty spots.
no brainer.no thanks.
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CityHick i still haven’t gotten to drive my Bronco so i really can’t say how mine performs compared to yours but I press on the brakes all the time and it feels so nice. I’ll leave it for weeks and then go and stomp on it just to see.
I’d have to guess there is something not right in your setup or still air somewhere.
anything new?
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It's okay, I am still underwhelmed by this upgrade. People describe braking being so strong that you have to be careful (face meeting windshield, etc). Those claims seem to be drastically overstated. Braking performance is better than with the vacuum booster, but not what I expected.
It doesn't really matter anyway - I rarely drive the thing anymore. I did however just replace my seats so who knows, maybe that'll motivate me to put some miles on.1970 Bronco
My build thread
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I got to drive a buddies bronco last weekend. He has a homebrew hydroboost system using GM parts. His brakes are insanely firm and stop that Bronco so good. He said he had problems with his hard lines that he flared himself and ended up removing all the hard lines and replaced with steel braided/coated lines and that changed everything for him. I'm going to look into swapping out atleast my axle lines for those since I flared those myself and see if that changes things for me.
I know mine must be leaking somewhere because I can bleed it, get great pedal feel out of it and then it slowly degrades over time and needs to be blead again.1973 Bronco Ranger - 302, C4, Dana 20, Dana 44 front, 9 inch rear, 3.55 gears, 35" MTR's on Allied Beadlocks, 3.5" Wild Horses lift
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Originally posted by CityHick View PostIt's okay, I am still underwhelmed by this upgrade. People describe braking being so strong that you have to be careful (face meeting windshield, etc). Those claims seem to be drastically overstated. Braking performance is better than with the vacuum booster, but not what I expected.
It doesn't really matter anyway - I rarely drive the thing anymore. I did however just replace my seats so who knows, maybe that'll motivate me to put some miles on.
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Originally posted by 70 Steed View Post
Tony, my hydroboost was a drastic improvement over the vacuum setup. I did have to be careful and not press the pedal too hard at first. Now it stops like a modern car. One of the best upgrades I did. I’m guessing something is still not right with your system. It might be time to take it to a shop that has experience with hydroboost systems.1970 Bronco
My build thread
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A member on the Classic forum mentioned he had an issue where his brakes stay on and he added a spring to retract the pedal. I noticed t by at my pedal stays down (finally got to drive it) and confirmed that mine stay on a bit as well.
Any chance your issue is that the brakes stay on, heat up, and are spongy feeling?
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Originally posted by ba123 View PostA member on the Classic forum mentioned he had an issue where his brakes stay on and he added a spring to retract the pedal. I noticed t by at my pedal stays down (finally got to drive it) and confirmed that mine stay on a bit as well.
Any chance your issue is that the brakes stay on, heat up, and are spongy feeling?
Honestly I've not driven my rig in months and have recently noticed it has a significant oil leak on the driver's rear axle seal. I won't drive it until after I fix that problem - I don't want oil getting on my rear brake pads. I have precisely zero time to deal with that at present; but as I've said before, Broncos are patient and they wait for their owners to regain interest...
To restate my overall sentiment and the status of my rig - it stops okay. Better than it did with vacuum boosted brakes. I am just underwhelmed by the improvement vs what's been stated by so many. But, there are so many variables like tire size, etc. There's not much more need to update this thread.
In March I'm taking a week off to catch up on things around the house. The Bronco may get some love during that week too. We'll see.1970 Bronco
My build thread
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Tony, for what it’s worth, I had major braking issues for the first 10 years of mine being on the road. I too have the GM front disc conversion. I finally got tired of the frustrated having little stopping ability. I too ordered and installed the WH hydro boost setup. Still had issues with the front. Rear locked up like never before. Rechecked my front caliper clearance and wouldn’t you know, there was my issue all along. When I thought I had ground enough off for clearance, it needed just a little more. Now I have the ability to look at my front bumper over my hood if I sit in my brakes hard enough. May I suggest you revisit your front caliper clearance again like I did. Brad1969 Sport, 351 roller EFI, 4R70W, TEAM BLUE.
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