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  • Originally posted by crawlin68 View Post
    Ahhh, good advise. You sound like you are speaking from experience!?
    Yes, I had to run a die over a couple of them.
    Also another tip, when you get it all together double nut the lower studs to protect the protruding threads from gouging on rocks, if you ever manage to drag that thing on a rock. This is a non-issue with a low pinion, but with my HP the studs are left out in the open. I am guessing your upside down LP will have the same exposure.
    69, 342 EFI, C4, NP203, D20, 4.5" SL, 2" BL, 4.88 9" 35 spline ARB, 4.88 HP D44, WAH, ARB, CTM's, front disc , 37 x 14.50 Toyo MT, Ram Assist, and rear 4-link

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    • Originally posted by highlander View Post
      Yes, I had to run a die over a couple of them.
      Also another tip, when you get it all together double nut the lower studs to protect the protruding threads from gouging on rocks, if you ever manage to drag that thing on a rock. This is a non-issue with a low pinion, but with my HP the studs are left out in the open. I am guessing your upside down LP will have the same exposure.
      The studs aren't the problem with mine, I have ground the nuts down to where I can barely get a wrench on them. I can't get a socket to grab any more. Same problem on the front diff with the bolts for the cover.
      Marc D.
      If you drive with rage, drive a cage.

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      • I'd make the truss longer so it touches the portal flanges.
        That is where a lot of your stress is going to be.
        Or is that where your portals are going to end up?
        Mark Harris
        71 Bronco, 9 inch, 60, c4, Stak 3 speed, and 42 inch balloons.

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        • Originally posted by welndmn View Post
          Or is that where your portals are going to end up?

          LOL! Yes, that is where the portal box will bolt on. The housing is only going to be 39 inches wide.

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          • Actually, the weak point in the 9 inch housing is the welded seam on the factory truss. The axle tube handles the extra torque just fine, but the axle tube transfers the torque to the housing and splits the weld on the factory truss. Here are some pics of rigs with mog9's that did not truss their housings.
            Attached Files
            Last edited by crawlin68; 12-06-2007, 07:32 AM.

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            • Ah, you thinking twisting, I was just thinking normal bending.
              Sounds like you have it covered though.
              Let me know when I can drop my parts off to have it done..........
              Mark Harris
              71 Bronco, 9 inch, 60, c4, Stak 3 speed, and 42 inch balloons.

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              • Originally posted by welndmn View Post
                Let me know when I can drop my parts off to have it done..........

                Gather up your parts and come on over!

                I got a little more work done today. I fabbed up my upper truss to mount my upper links to. Nothing fancy, just your standard truss. Man this thing took forever to build though. Very time consuming.
                Attached Files

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                • Great fab work (as usual!!), will it be ready for next Sunday?
                  Last edited by 720Racer; 12-09-2007, 03:39 PM.
                  Originally posted by 71BRONCO71 at Buck Island 6/25/11
                  I can do that so much better myself..........1, 2, 3 GOODNIGHT!!!

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                  • Looks a little familiar, great work. What size rect. tube did you use for the top truss?
                    69, 342 EFI, C4, NP203, D20, 4.5" SL, 2" BL, 4.88 9" 35 spline ARB, 4.88 HP D44, WAH, ARB, CTM's, front disc , 37 x 14.50 Toyo MT, Ram Assist, and rear 4-link

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                    • Wow first the housing, then the truss Looks great. Glad I do not have the horse power to cause that kind of damage.
                      1974EB 302v8, NP435, dana 20 twinstick, dana 44, 9 inch Detriot Locker's, 4.88 gears, front disk, Rockbox, wild horses 4.5 inch lift, 4 wheel Warn Full Floater, 35 Super Swamp Bogers.

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                      • Nice. Reminds me that I could really use a torch.
                        Marc D.
                        If you drive with rage, drive a cage.

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                        • Thanks guys. I used 3 x 6 rectangle tubing for the truss and 1.5 inch and 2 inch round tube for the tubes that go through the truss.

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                          • So are you ready to go wheelin yet? You don't need a rear axle, check this out (starting at 5:20 or so)! It's mostly Toyota's but the last scene is worth it.
                            Last edited by highlander; 12-09-2007, 05:34 PM.
                            69, 342 EFI, C4, NP203, D20, 4.5" SL, 2" BL, 4.88 9" 35 spline ARB, 4.88 HP D44, WAH, ARB, CTM's, front disc , 37 x 14.50 Toyo MT, Ram Assist, and rear 4-link

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                            • Thats just SICK!!!! Nice work!!
                              CURRENT: D44 and 9" with open 3.50's, Atlas II, NV4500, stock suspension, 2" body lift, 31" tires. 93 Mustang 5.0 bored over and ported/polished.

                              IN PROGESS: 3.5" suspension lift and CAGE arms.

                              NEEDS: ARB's front and rear, and GEARS!

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                              • Originally posted by 720Racer View Post
                                Great fab work (as usual!!), will it be ready for next Sunday?
                                Ha ha! Might be ready the "next Sunday" in 2008.

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