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Re: The 67 Luber
The fuel switch under the driver seat.
The fuel switch under the driver seat.
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69, 7" lift,D-44 with air locker, 9" 35 spl full floater with a locker, 4-wheel disc, custom paint, one off custom mods, Hanson bumpers and side protection, 35's on Champion beadlocks. -
Re: The 67 Luber
Not an option checked on the Marti Report... Single tank Bronco.Originally posted by BRONKEN View Post
One less hole to drill or fill!2002 F250 Superduty, 7.3 241,500 miles and counting
1979 Bronco, 351M,NP435,4:11's on 33's
2016 Race Red Shelby GT350Comment
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Re: The 67 Luber
So Floor is all welded up and ready for paint and sealer.
I took off the Drivers Fender, which was a challenge as they used none of the factory bolts and J-nuts. It was all stainless bolts/washers/ny-lock nuts...
I am looking at work where it was obvious that someone did not know how to weld and used pop rivets? WTF? Some massaging to the inner fender is needed. And a bunch of plug welds
A rust hole that might need the drivers door post replaced???
Such fun
2002 F250 Superduty, 7.3 241,500 miles and counting
1979 Bronco, 351M,NP435,4:11's on 33's
2016 Race Red Shelby GT350Comment
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Re: The 67 Luber
Custom rivet job. And I thought a 1/2” of bondo on my front fender was custom. :-)Comment
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Re: The 67 Luber
Did that rig come from somewhere east of here at some point in its life?
I have heard lots of stories about floor pan rust repair done with pop rivets and scrap metal in rust belt states that have annual vehicle inspections - ie... inspection failure if there are holes larger than whatever size... but passed if they are covered up in basically any semi-permanent fashion...1970 Bronco
My build thread
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Re: The 67 Luber
That's awesome. Atleast those rivets are somewhat well placed. After you drill them out the plug welding should go pretty quick.
Floor boards look killer!1973 Bronco Ranger - 302, C4, Dana 20, Dana 44 front, 9 inch rear, 3.55 gears, 35" MTR's on Allied Beadlocks, 3.5" Wild Horses liftComment
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Re: The 67 Luber
DSO was in Seattle Tony. I know that it spent the last 15 years in Los Altos... Parked outside.Originally posted by CityHick View Post
Based on the little ripple in back half of the inner fender and wheel well, I am guessing there was some kind of accident on the drivers side. Which caused a section of the inner fender to be replaced?
I ordered a door post from WH today, as well as a fender and grill bolt kit... I will post up a picture of my special wrench that I created later
2002 F250 Superduty, 7.3 241,500 miles and counting
1979 Bronco, 351M,NP435,4:11's on 33's
2016 Race Red Shelby GT350Comment
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Re: The 67 Luber
Special wrench I made to hold fender bolts...
Door post needs to be replaced, going to ask a lot of questions before tackling this.
I cut the hole up higher, things looked better... Started tapping the metal with a pointed body hammer and it blew through. Damn!
Not what I wanted to do. Checked the pass side... All looks good there. I want this done right for the next owner.
2002 F250 Superduty, 7.3 241,500 miles and counting
1979 Bronco, 351M,NP435,4:11's on 33's
2016 Race Red Shelby GT350Comment
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Re: The 67 Luber
Well I am in the door post... I looked at a bunch of builds on Classic, talked to my Body shop buddies, and have Cage Dave on a "Retainer".
I took a number of pictures of gaps and took a number of measurements.
The Hinge boxes are welded to the Kick panel, which is different than the replacement panel (maybe an earlier design?), so the door post is coming out in pieces. Hope to get the last piece out tomorrow, start making a patch for the kick panel rust hole, Grind the spot welds down, treat the whole area with Rust converter, and then paint with weldable primer.
Then mount the new door post with screws and tack welds, then mount the door to check gaps, then the fender to check gaps. If all good then weld everything up and seem seal.
Then I can start on the inner fender and wheel well... With all those pop rivets!
Last edited by 904Bronco; 02-17-2018, 07:10 PM.2002 F250 Superduty, 7.3 241,500 miles and counting
1979 Bronco, 351M,NP435,4:11's on 33's
2016 Race Red Shelby GT350Comment
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Re: The 67 Luber
Looks like a bit of sheet metal in your future. I have been doing the same thing on my 70 Mustang. I was a body man in the 60ties .1974EB 302v8, NP435, dana 20 twinstick, dana 44, 9 inch Detriot Locker's, 4.88 gears, front disk, Rockbox, wild horses 4.5 inch lift, 4 wheel Warn Full Floater, 35 Super Swamp Bogers.Comment
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Re: The 67 Luber
So not a lot of time in the shop today. Got the last piece of the old door post out. Did some grinding, sanding, pounding, wire wheeling, etc.
Hope for time tomorrow to cut out the old piece and fab up the new. Maybe even tack it in?
2002 F250 Superduty, 7.3 241,500 miles and counting
1979 Bronco, 351M,NP435,4:11's on 33's
2016 Race Red Shelby GT350Comment
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Re: The 67 Luber
Have you ever done a rear disk conversion?Comment
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Re: The 67 Luber
Yes, but on a Landcruiser FJ40. GM components, it worked very well once I got the proportioning valve set correctly.
I believe the Explorer based rear brakes are popular now...
There is also the GM based system from an 80's passenger car... Biggest complaint I have heard with that is getting the parking brake to work.Last edited by 904Bronco; 02-21-2018, 12:09 PM.2002 F250 Superduty, 7.3 241,500 miles and counting
1979 Bronco, 351M,NP435,4:11's on 33's
2016 Race Red Shelby GT350Comment
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Re: The 67 Luber
Cut out the rust, treated the panel with rust converter, trying to create a patch panel... And it is cold in the shop!
2002 F250 Superduty, 7.3 241,500 miles and counting
1979 Bronco, 351M,NP435,4:11's on 33's
2016 Race Red Shelby GT350Comment
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Re: The 67 Luber
Really nice work Doug. I will be doing the same surgery on my 70 very soon.Comment
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