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  • First post...A few quick EFI questions

    I have a 96 explorer motor being rebuilt right now. I plan on converting over to 88-93 mustang stuff.

    1. Has anyone had good luck with a reman A9L ECU equivalent from your local parts store?

    2.Can I use my stock explorer MAF housing and change the MAF sensor? Or should I just buy a whole new MAF sensor for the mustang? The explorer MAF has a different plug that's a 6-wire

    3. I plan on fabricating my own stainless fuel tank. I have the factory explorer bolt flange and I can buy a whole new sending unit/pump/sock for about 200 bucks. Has anyone else done this before? I work in a large sheet metal shop with endless stainless scrap.

    4. I found a good BP sensor at pick n pull. Should I even use it or should I buy ALL new sensors?

    5. The stock explorer intake tube has a convenient location for the ACT between the MAF and throttle body. Should I still drill and tap my explorer lower since that's where the mustang ACT was located?

    Thanks for the help!
    Last edited by 72bronc0; 04-14-2012, 08:17 PM. Reason: added pictures!
    1972 w/Explorer package
    5.0L Explorer EFI motor w/GT40P heads
    M5R2 5 speed trans/NP205 t-case

  • #2
    Re: First post...A few quick EFI questions

    There are several guys here that have used Explorer engines and converted them to EEC-IV. They may be able to chime in with ideas of what they have done. I do believe that the 96 and newer explorer engines are OBDII electronics, If it were me, I wouldn't even try to use any of the Explorer sensors including the MAF. As far as the ACT, I think I would install it in the manifold somewhere.

    There is nothing wrong with using donor/junkyard sensors, but be prepared to do some troubleshooting and chasing ghosts... I had to do that for awhile trying to figure out which if any sensors were bad or acting up. But you definitely save a lot of money that way!

    I really like your idea for the custom stainless fuel tank. I want to eventually build a custom stainless fuel cell that fits my bronco a little better than the plain square cells.
    SOLD: 1975 Ford Bronco: 105" wheelbase, King 14" c/o shocks, King 2" air bumps w/ Duff arms, 4 link rear w/ coils. Fuel injected 408W, ZF 5 speed/Atlas II(4.3) and Dana 60/70 axles with 5.13 gears and ARB's, 41.5/13.5R17 Pitbull Rockers on 17" Raceline Monsters.

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    • #3
      Re: First post...A few quick EFI questions

      Originally posted by Efibroncoman View Post
      There are several guys here that have used Explorer engines and converted them to EEC-IV. They may be able to chime in with ideas of what they have done. I do believe that the 96 and newer explorer engines are OBDII electronics, If it were me, I wouldn't even try to use any of the Explorer sensors including the MAF. As far as the ACT, I think I would install it in the manifold somewhere.

      There is nothing wrong with using donor/junkyard sensors, but be prepared to do some troubleshooting and chasing ghosts... I had to do that for awhile trying to figure out which if any sensors were bad or acting up. But you definitely save a lot of money that way!

      I really like your idea for the custom stainless fuel tank. I want to eventually build a custom stainless fuel cell that fits my bronco a little better than the plain square cells.
      Thanks for the tips. I don't plan on using anything explorer at this point. I don't even want to touch OBD-II. I am having the motor re-built completely stock so it's not going to be anything wild.

      Could I even get away with a speed density system? If so, what would be the best donor? If I'm not mistaken the non-HO motors from ford/mercury cars have the wrong firing order right? There's a complete MAF Grand Marquis at the junkyard that I already grabbed the BP from.

      When I get my tank all finished I'll be sure to post some pictures and details of how I built it. Thanks again.
      1972 w/Explorer package
      5.0L Explorer EFI motor w/GT40P heads
      M5R2 5 speed trans/NP205 t-case

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: First post...A few quick EFI questions

        Everything that EFIbroncoman said...plus this:

        There are lots of guys running parts-house A9L boxes. If the computer wasn't usually free with the engine/harness...I would have used one from O'Reilly.

        I don't understand why you would want to use the Explorer MAF, since it is kinda strange, and it is looking for the Explorer air cleaner. I like the OEM Mustang MAF, because the K&N filter fits perfect, and it is pin compatible with the harness.

        The answer to the ACT depends a little on which harness you will run. The factory harness is looking for the ACT sensor in the bung on the lower manifold. It fits there, and it works. So why not put it there?

        The more interesting sensor is the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor, which you will have to figure out. Since most people do not run EGR, there's no reason for the EGR bypass tap, and since most Bronco's use a heater control valve...you need to get clever on the temp sensor.

        I have always had great success running stone stock, used sensors from a running, driving car. The only sensor I have ever had to replace is the TFI module.

        I am very interested to see your stainless tank design. I am currently running the BC bronco's tank, (same as WH Sherman tank) with the in-tank EFI pump. I would very much like to see a full width tank...with an integrated fill neck, and plate style (or cam ring lock) retainer.

        I built a custom 16ga stainless tank for my Flatfender, and by the time I got it fabricated...it cost a fortune. If you have a clean low profile tank, that will hold 20+ gallons, that is relieved for single exhaust, and fits with a 2 inch body lift, I'm sure that you could sell a few.

        James.

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        • #5
          Re: First post...A few quick EFI questions

          Originally posted by jamesroney View Post
          Everything that EFIbroncoman said...plus this:

          There are lots of guys running parts-house A9L boxes. If the computer wasn't usually free with the engine/harness...I would have used one from O'Reilly.

          I don't understand why you would want to use the Explorer MAF, since it is kinda strange, and it is looking for the Explorer air cleaner. I like the OEM Mustang MAF, because the K&N filter fits perfect, and it is pin compatible with the harness.

          The answer to the ACT depends a little on which harness you will run. The factory harness is looking for the ACT sensor in the bung on the lower manifold. It fits there, and it works. So why not put it there?

          The more interesting sensor is the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor, which you will have to figure out. Since most people do not run EGR, there's no reason for the EGR bypass tap, and since most Bronco's use a heater control valve...you need to get clever on the temp sensor.

          I have always had great success running stone stock, used sensors from a running, driving car. The only sensor I have ever had to replace is the TFI module.

          I am very interested to see your stainless tank design. I am currently running the BC bronco's tank, (same as WH Sherman tank) with the in-tank EFI pump. I would very much like to see a full width tank...with an integrated fill neck, and plate style (or cam ring lock) retainer.

          I built a custom 16ga stainless tank for my Flatfender, and by the time I got it fabricated...it cost a fortune. If you have a clean low profile tank, that will hold 20+ gallons, that is relieved for single exhaust, and fits with a 2 inch body lift, I'm sure that you could sell a few.

          James.
          Thanks James. I will most likely take your advice on the ACT. I think I can drill and tap the ECT in the top of the heater line fitting right? I have seen pics of this before.

          I can pretty much build whatever I want on the tank. what kind of exhaust relief are you looking for? If you all have some more ideas I can certainly try my best to make something that's a good fit and function. I only have a 1" body lift so my biggest constraint is the depth of the stock sending unit. It's not that tall so I don't see it as a huge issue. I really like the factory bolt flange and seal. The whole sending unit from Oreilly's is about 200 bucks I think. It comes with the pump/sender/harness/seal, and sock.
          1972 w/Explorer package
          5.0L Explorer EFI motor w/GT40P heads
          M5R2 5 speed trans/NP205 t-case

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: First post...A few quick EFI questions

            can you please go to this thread

            http://www.norcalbroncos.com/forum/s...ead.php?t=9714

            and post some pics with a tape measure for reference of that fuel sender and how it bolts to the tank, where the gasket sits etc?

            Im trying to figure out the intank portion for my cell, and the small autozone pic of the sender I think you are talking about looks more promising than my set up. Would it be easy to extend shorten the pickup/pump length for various hieght cells?

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            • #7
              Re: First post...A few quick EFI questions

              I would just use your short block and heads, unless you want better heads. Then just run a foxbody topend with all the mustang sensors. You can find all this stuff cheap on craigslist.
              70 eb 60f 14b mild 302 435-klune 4-1-np205 and some dents

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: First post...A few quick EFI questions

                the top end will be a gt40 upper and lower with a 65mm throttle body. Why woud he not use that? all the senders should work fine. Find a BAP, TFI and inertia switch and you are good to go. Many of the aftermarket auto parts stores have replacement water necks with a spot for the sender in it.

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                • #9
                  Re: First post...A few quick EFI questions

                  Sounded like he wanted to use mustang parts and the act was different. If its compatable plug wise good, use what you got.
                  70 eb 60f 14b mild 302 435-klune 4-1-np205 and some dents

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                  • #10
                    Re: First post...A few quick EFI questions

                    The ACT can go anywhere in the incoming air stream. The intake tube is a fine location. No need to tap the manifold.
                    1971 EB: 3.5" 4 link rear, wristed front, 2" body, 96 Explorer 5.0 EDIS EEC-IV, C6, Nissan PS, Hydroboost w/front disks, 4.88 9" w/spool, D44 w/ aussie locker, TRO, 37" MTRs

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: First post...A few quick EFI questions

                      Sorry I should have been more clear. I am using the explorer upper and lower intakes. I only need to source sensors, ECU, distributor, etc from a mustang. When I bought the motor it was complete from MAF to oil pan so I am trying to use as much as I can.

                      I already got a BAP and TPS from the junkyard. The TPS is almost identical to the explorer but with the earlier model plug to fit the mustang harness. I would have grabbed the IAC but the plug on it was broken.

                      I'll take some photos of my stock sending unit tonight. It appears to be quite a bit shorter than the one pictured above. The only downside is you'd have to find a tank and cut the top out of it to get the bolt flange and gasket indent. I'll take photos of that tonight as well. Thanks guys for all the help.
                      1972 w/Explorer package
                      5.0L Explorer EFI motor w/GT40P heads
                      M5R2 5 speed trans/NP205 t-case

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: First post...A few quick EFI questions

                        I have a used in-tank fuel pump/sender from a 1996 5.0 explorer if it helps you, I was going to use it just like you are but I decided to go with dual tanks so I don't need it. Let me know if it work work for you.
                        Build thread

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                        • #13
                          Re: First post...A few quick EFI questions

                          So if you decide to build a custom stainless tank, here's what I WISH that someone would offer.

                          The single exhaust on my bronco is a 3 inch OD pipe. It clears the existing BC tank, but if you maximize the tank size...it would be nice if the tank had a relief for the tailpipe in the "over the axle" area.

                          The BC tank (Wild H Sherman tank) sacrifices width and length for depth. It is also designed to be installed and or removed from the bottom. I wish that my tank were wider, longer, and had more of a sump in the bottom. I also wish that it did not have the universal uni-strut hangers.

                          Also, I would fabricate a custom pump mount just like the BC tank, except with bulkhead fittings for the outlet in the mount. The welded AN fittings are OK, but the location is horrid.

                          Don't get me wrong, I don't hate theBC tank. It just has compromises to be universal. So if I were building a custom, I would customize it!


                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: First post...A few quick EFI questions

                            Originally posted by 72bronc0 View Post
                            I think I can drill and tap the ECT in the top of the heater line fitting right? I have seen pics of this before.
                            I've also seen this done, but it doesn't make sense to me. Most every car built after 1980 has a full flow heater core. So there is coolant flowing thru the heater hoses.

                            The Bronco has a water shut off valve, which restricts/stops the flow. So the water in the heater hose is stagnant. If you had the EGR coolant connected, then at least SOME water would continue to flow.

                            I have seen many instances of people putting the temp sensor in the fitting elbow, and I think that the F150 acutally has an OEM piece that does that. Many people will tell you that it works fine...and maybe it does. But the water temperature sensor was engineered to predict the temperature of the combustion chamber by approximating the temperature of the water jacket, thru a measurement of the coolant circulating in the intake manifold. Does any of that matter??? I don't know.

                            What I DO know is that I would never locate my engine temperature gage sender in a shut off heater hose.

                            ...so why would you put the input to the ECM in a dead coolant passage?

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                            • #15
                              Re: First post...A few quick EFI questions

                              if you want all new sensors....I thought it was cheaper
                              http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...Sensor-Package

                              comes with a few things you dont need like tab and tad solniods These two are like $40 a piece.
                              70 eb 60f 14b mild 302 435-klune 4-1-np205 and some dents

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