Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Tony's Favorite Tech Tips

Collapse
This is a sticky topic.
X
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    Re: Tony's Favorite Tech Tips

    88-91 EEC Pinouts

    Comment


    • #17
      Re: Tony's Favorite Tech Tips

      Here is the idle adjustment procedure from alldata for a 1991 5.0 Mustang:

      NOTE: The curb and fast idle speeds are controlled by the EEC-IV processor and the Air Bypass Valve Assembly. The Air Bypass Valve Assembly is not adjustable. A large increase or decrease in closed plate airflow from the calibrated level will not allow this device to control the speed.

      The idle speed setting procedure has been revised considerably to reflect the expanded application of the Self-Test idle speed options and because the throttle body incorporates an orifice in the throttle plate to control idle airflow as part of the sludge tolerant design.

      Throttle bodies with sludge tolerant design are clearly identified with a Yellow/Black decal. This decal warns that the throttle plate stop screw must not be adjusted counterclockwise (backed off), as this will not reduce the engine speed but may cause the throttle plate to stick in the bore. Backing out the screw may be required if the throttle body has been previously serviced (a plug in the throttle plate orifice may be present), or the plate stop screw tampered with (TPS Self-Test output out of range). The decal also warns that the throttle body must NOT be cleaned inside the bore, as this cleaning will impair the sensitive coating. The sludge accumulation will not affect the idle air flow. The cleaning procedure for the Idle Air Bypass Valve (IABP) still applies.

      REMEMBER
      A change in idle airflow can occur not only at the throttle body but other areas as well. You should enter the idle speed procedure only after other possible causes in the following areas are eliminated.
      • Contamination within the idle speed control device
      • Lack of fuel system control (excessively rich or lean)
      • Throttle sticking or binding
      • Engine not reaching operating temperature
      • Incorrect ignition timing
      • Incorrect or clogged PCV system
      • Vacuum leaks (intake manifold, vacuum hoses, vacuum reservoirs, power brake booster etc.


      VERIFY
      • Transmission is in PARK (A/T), or NEUTRAL (M/T)
      • Parking brake is applied (automatic brake release disconnected where applicable)
      • Wheels blocked
      • Engine at operating temperature
      • Proper fuel pressure and no exhaust smoke
      • Correct and clean PCV system
      • Heater, A/C, and other accessories OFF
      • Ignition timing is set to specification
      • EEC-IV diagnostics have been performed and vehicle malfunction indicated service output codes have been resolved.


      PROCEDURE:

      STEP 1
      With the engine OFF, connect a tachometer according to manufacturers instructions. Disconnect the negative (-) terminal of the battery for 5 minutes, then reconnect it.

      STEP 2
      START the engine and allow the idle to stabilize for two minutes. Goose the accelerator, and let the engine return to idle. Lightly depress and release the accelerator, then let the engine idle.

      STEP 3
      If the engine does not idle properly, proceed with this procedure.
      NOTE: In some cases, even if the idle speed is OK, proceed with this procedure if the customer's complaint persists (idle speed control duty cycle may be out of range).

      STEP 4
      Turn the engine OFF, and install a .025" feeler gauge between plate stop screw and the throttle lever.

      STEP 5
      Without touching the throttle START the engine, then let it idle.

      STEP 6
      Place the transmission in PARK (A/T), or NEUTRAL (M/T).

      STEP 7
      Using a tachometer, verify idle speed is (A/T) 675 +/- 50 rpm.

      Throttle Plate Orifice Plug

      NOTE: A plug in the throttle body orifice will decrease idle rpm. Where as an orifice without a plug will increase idle rpm. Orifice plugs and installation tools are available in service kit #FOPZ-9F652-A.

      RPM TOO LOW

      NOTE: Before proceding with this procedure, shut the engine OFF, wait ten seconds, then RE-START the engine. This eliminates the possibility of entering part throttle mode.
      • DO NOT clean the throttle body, check for the plate orifice plug.
      • If there is no plug, turn the screw clockwise to the desired rpm.
      • If there is a plug from previous service, remove the plug, then adjust the screw in either direction as required. Screw must be in contact with the lever pad after adjustment.


      RPM TOO HIGH
      • Turn OFF the engine.
      • Disconnect air cleaner hose.
      • Temporarily block the throttle plate orifice with tape. If the orifice already has a plug from previous service, proceed to Step (e).
      • RESTART the engine, and check idle speed, using a tachometer. NOTE: On vehicles with Mass Air Flow Sensors, reconnect the air intake duct hose before checking idle rpm. If the engine stalls, crack open the plate stop screw, but DO NOT over adjust.
      • If rpm continues to be fast, RUN Key ON Engine OFF (KOEO) Self-Test.
      • If TPS output code is within range, remove tape from throttle body, and check for other possible causes.
      • If TPS output is out of range, adjust screw for proper TPS code. Lever must be in contact with the screw after adjustment is completed.
      • If rpm is still fast, terminate this procedure, and check for other possible causes.
      • If rpm drops to the the value in Step 7 or lower, or the engine stalls, turn the engine OFF, disconnect the air cleaner hose, and remove tape from throttle plate.
      • Install the proper color coded orifice plug, according to the throttle plate orifice size.
      • Reconnect the air cleaner hose, and START the engine. Check the idle rpm using a tachometer. Turn the plate stop screw clockwise to the nominal rpm +/- 25 rpm shown in Step 7.


      STEP 8
      Shut the engine OFF, then remove the feeler gauge between between the plate stop screw and the throttle lever. Disconnect the battery for at least five minutes, then reconnect it.

      STEP 9
      RUN the Key ON Engine OFF (KOEO) Self-Test for proper TPS code output.

      STEP 10
      START the engine, and allow the idle to stabilize for two minutes. Goose the accelerator, and let the engine return to idle. Lightly depress and release the accelerator, then let engine idle. If idle problem still exists, check for other possible causes.

      STEP 11
      For Automatic Overdrive (AOD) transmission equipped vehicle, check and adjust (if necessary) the throttle valve pressure.

      THROTTLE BODY ORIFICE PLUG INSTALLATION
      • Remove air inlet tube(s) from throttle body.
      • Select the proper color plug by using the Go/No-Go gauge pegs, included with the service kit.
      • Starting with the largest diameter gauge peg, attempt to insert it through the throttle plate orifice.
      • If the gauge peg goes through the orifice, use the corresponding colored plug. If the gauge peg does not go through, proceed with the next smaller gauge peg for Go/No-Go Test.


      NOTE: It is important that the largest Go/No-Go combination is used in determining the proper plug size.

      If the smallest gauge peg does not go through the orifice, use the reamer bit and handle, included with the service kit, to enlarge the plate orifice. Wipe bearing grease on both sides of the plate orifice and on the reamer bit to hold the brass chips. After reaming, wipe plate clean, then return to Step 3 to determine the proper plug size.

      Using the installation tool from the service kit, push the plug into the orifice until it bottoms out at the throttle plate.

      Open and snap closed the throttle several times to verify proper plug retention.

      Reconnect the air inlet tube(s).

      Reset idle rpm per engine requirement, using the throttle plate stop screw.

      Comment


      • #18
        5.0 EFI References & Troubleshooting Procedures

        Here's a PB album with a bunch of EFI references & pinpoint troubleshooting procedures I have collected. I'll upload additional pinpoint tests as I have time. If you need specific pinpoint test procedures, PM me.

        http://s482.photobucket.com/user/lug...roubleshooting

        Comment


        • #19
          Re: Tony's Favorite Tech Tips/From the Stereo thread

          Thought I would add the links from the stereo opinions thread. Really like the first one and the crawl tunes at the bottom.



          http://www.tomsbroncoparts.com/produ...sb-ipod-iphone

          http://www.turnswitch.com/radio1.htm

          http://classicbroncos.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=238935

          http://www.amazon.com/Clarion-EQS746...rion+equalizer

          http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PLMRMP3A-...ine+amplifiers

          http://www.crutchfield.com/p_079AIRW...CWA-BT150.html

          http://www.amazon.com/Shkamp5800bt-M...productDetails

          http://www.amazon.com/Shkc6800-Motor...audio+remote+4

          http://www.amazon.com/Shkc6800-Chrom...audio+remote+4

          http://www.crawltunes.com/product.ph...cat=252&page=1

          http://www.crawltunes.com/product.ph...cat=252&page=1

          1970 w/89 5.0, np 435/203/205, 456/locker/ARB, 4 wheel disc brakes w/hydroboost, 5.5" lift w/ext.radius arms, 3" bod lift, RS 9000's, tilt column, Hydro assist steering, 39.5" pitbull's on H1's. 4 link rear suspension. Hey brother, can you spare some change, I need parts....

          Comment


          • #20
            Re: Pirate Headlight Tech Link

            http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/usmcdoc/lights/index.php

            Thanks for this one...
            1970 w/89 5.0, np 435/203/205, 456/locker/ARB, 4 wheel disc brakes w/hydroboost, 5.5" lift w/ext.radius arms, 3" bod lift, RS 9000's, tilt column, Hydro assist steering, 39.5" pitbull's on H1's. 4 link rear suspension. Hey brother, can you spare some change, I need parts....

            Comment


            • #21
              Re: Tony's Favorite Tech Tips

              MAF tunes:

              I found this great web site for MAF curves, very cool!
              http://info.efidynotuning.com/maf.htm
              Build thread

              Comment


              • #22
                Re: Tony's Favorite Tech Tips

                For anybody who purchases a new 9" rear housing from Currie:

                The breather vent hole that they drill and tap is 1/8 NPT thread.

                The Ford breather bolt (which serves double duty holding down the rear brake junction to the housing) is something else - a larger thread. The Scott Drake reproduction part corresponds to the OEM Ford size.

                There is no such thing as a breather bolt sized in 1/8" NPT thread.

                Solution: buy a 1/8 NPT die (hard to find... I can mail you mine if you are unable to find one). You can carefully re-tap the OEM Ford or Repop Scott Drake unit. It removes a good amount of material and is hard to get started, but it will work.
                Attached Files
                1970 Bronco
                My build thread

                Comment


                • #23
                  Re: Tony's Favorite Tech Tips

                  Originally posted by CityHick View Post
                  For anybody who purchases a new 9" rear housing from Currie:

                  The breather vent hole that they drill and tap is 1/8 NPT thread.

                  .
                  Believe it's 7/16 X20, Well that's what my 60 was.
                  Originally posted by TBS-POPS
                  After a huge amount of reflection, I have determined that what I saw in ukiah was in fact Brians bronco. I was also informed by my wife that she infact heard it run!!

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Re: Tony's Favorite Tech Tips

                    Originally posted by Bronco Brian View Post
                    Believe it's 7/16 X20, Well that's what my 60 was.
                    Brian, I spoke to people at Currie about this twice. They confirmed that their 9" housings are drilled and tapped in 1/8" NPT (pipe thread). The breather barb that they provide is absolutely 1/8" NPT, double confirmed by threading it in to known fittings.

                    This tip is specific to Currie housings. Trying to save a headache for someone else in the future after buying a housing from Currie.

                    Ford (and other OEM) housings may be 7/16-20 - that is probably what the Scott Drake repop part is. The problem is that there are no 1/8" NPT breather bolts (at least not ones that are easy to find).

                    Thanks for your help for those looking for the breather bolt for OEM housings... good info here for both now!
                    1970 Bronco
                    My build thread

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Re: Tony's Favorite Tech Tips

                      A 3/8" not nipple would work or a 3/8" NPR x barbed fitting

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Re: Tony's Favorite Tech Tips

                        My 1979 front Dana 60 uses a 3/8" fine thread bolt. I couldn't find the original so re-threaded a brass 1/8" npt fitting.
                        SOLD: 1975 Ford Bronco: 105" wheelbase, King 14" c/o shocks, King 2" air bumps w/ Duff arms, 4 link rear w/ coils. Fuel injected 408W, ZF 5 speed/Atlas II(4.3) and Dana 60/70 axles with 5.13 gears and ARB's, 41.5/13.5R17 Pitbull Rockers on 17" Raceline Monsters.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Re: Tony's Favorite Tech Tips

                          All good info.
                          Currie ships a 1/8" NPT fitting that threads into the hole but doesn't have a long enough threaded section to hold down the brake distribution block. I tried piecing something together with 1/8" nipples and fittings and while it would have worked, it looked goofy and I did not like it. Re-threading the repop piece was the next best option.
                          1970 Bronco
                          My build thread

                          Comment

                          Working...
                          X