Anti-Wrap Thread

[highlander]

I haven't seen that design before, if you go that route I would try to make that shackle the same length as the front half of your leaf springs. It seems to work the same way the WH wrap trap works except with more leverage added by raising it off the differential and freeing up any bushing bind during articulation. It still relys on the springs to hold the axle in place on the lower half.

[earlybronco72]

One thing to remember with that design is that as your leafs compress the point from the front eye on the spring to the axle mounts gets longer since at ride hieght the spring is bent, and then when compressed it straightens out. I thought you may need one more thing to think about while designing this.

[Lars]

I haven't seen that design before, if you go that route I would try to make that shackle the same length as the front half of your leaf springs. It seems to work the same way the WH wrap trap works except with more leverage added by raising it off the differential and freeing up any bushing bind during articulation. It still relys on the springs to hold the axle in place on the lower half.

I spent a bunch of time modeling various wrap bar layouts last year, using SolidWorks. I agree, that is pretty much a variation of the WH Wrap Trap. I happen to have a wrap trap on mine. Upside is zero bind anywhere. I can articulate, droop or stuff the axle to any position, then reach under the Bronco and pull out the bolt retaining the bar to the bracket on top of the axle housing. Down side of the design is that it relies on the forward part of the leaf springs to act as the lower "link", in compression. I can live with that since I just have a puny 5.0 and I'm allergic to beating on my drive train The bam bar should work just as well but if I was thinking about buying it or the WH setup I'd probably go with the latter just because it has fewer parts n' bushings.

Oh yeah, what earlybronco72 said. It's important to get the geometry right or things will bind.

[Familyman]

I have seen the Bam bar too and don't like it.

if you go that route I would try to make that shackle the same length as the front half of your leaf springs.

2x

I like the first design you posted -

We have sure got people talking about shock location - you will see my new thread soon!?

FM <><

[720Racer]

I have seen the Bam bar too and don't like it.

2x

I like the first design you posted -

We have sure got people talking about shock location - you will see my new thread soon!?

FM <><

Tell us what you don't like about it. I agree with Marc and Lars, the top link has to be the same length as the front half of the springs to be effective (that's why my cross member is 1 1/4" infront of the front eye's of the leafs). I hadn't seen the anti-wrap that highlander posted pic's of 'till last week, and it's pretty cool. Seems like it would take the stress off the leafs under "wrap" stress, but looks like it might be more likely to bind during up or down travel. Highlander's bar looks like it mantains pinion angle in relation to the anti-wrap. The Bam bar seems like it would travel up and down more freely, but transmit more stress to the leafs during "wrap" motion. It seems to mantian pinion angle in relation to the leaf springs (if you get the top link (or shackle) length right).

If we can't come to an agreement on this, I might just have to 4 link it and get it over with LOL. Looking back, with 5.5" deavers running about $450, and another $75 for new bushings, shackle bolts, etc. a second set of Cage arms and some 5.5" coils (or any height you like) isn't that much further away.

[Lars]

Tell us what you don't like about it. I agree with Marc and Lars, the top link has to be the same length as the front half of the springs to be effective (that's why my cross member is 1 1/4" infront of the front eye's of the leafs). I hadn't seen the anti-wrap that highlander posted pic's of 'till last week, and it's pretty cool. Seems like it would take the stress off the leafs under "wrap" stress, but looks like it might be more likely to bind during up or down travel. Highlander's bar looks like it mantains pinion angle in relation to the anti-wrap. The Bam bar seems like it would travel up and down more freely, but transmit more stress to the leafs during "wrap" motion. It seems to mantian pinion angle in relation to the leaf springs (if you get the top link (or shackle) length right).

If we can't come to an agreement on this, I might just have to 4 link it and get it over with LOL. Looking back, with 5.5" deavers running about $450, and another $75 for new bushings, shackle bolts, etc. a second set of Cage arms and some 5.5" coils (or any height you like) isn't that much further away.

Ya know, after a bunch of noodling over the whole anti wrap thing, and especially the WH solution, I came to the conclusion that the Wrap Trap is really just one upper link of a 4 link system, moved to the center of the axle. Also, I decided that the more evolved your leaf spring antiwrap solution gets, the more it looks like a four link. At which point you might as well give in to the inevitable and build a 4 link. I didn't, but I've been thinking about it (obviously). I used to own a '98 Expedition. It had a 4 link rear end. I wish I'd taken pics. Admittedly it didn't have or need the wheel travel we'd want in an offroad Bronco, but that suspension soaked everything up. Much nicer than leaf springs. I've read that the hardest part about linking the rear of a Bronco is the narrow frame rails and lack of room. Still, there's gotta be a way to get a decent setup that's street-worthy. I don't have the remotest clue about proper link suspension design though.

[highlander]

I have ben paying close attention to this thread because I am halfway to building my antiwrap bar. I was initially planning on doing one similir to Patricks. I have attached the drawings I came up with, but still have time to change I already have one jonny joint, some 2"- .250 wall DOM and the bracket at the axle end.

[Familyman]

Well put Lars. In regards to 4-links there is the poly performance rear 4 link and I heard Jack Covert is coming out with a 4 link rear design also.?

Galen, as much as I would agree it would probably work I have never seen one on the trail. I also don't encourage welding into a cast center section of your rear end. Yes it can be done but it will tend to crack in time even when done right. This is also another version of a one link design like Lars stated. I still like having a link above and below. It seems stronger to me, but I could be wrong.

If we can't come to an agreement on this, I might just have to 4 link it and get it over with LOL

So I would just link it so we can all copy your dersign.

FM <><

[Lars]

So I would just link it so we can all copy your dersign.

FM <><

There you go! Galen, time to get on it. We'll give you plenty of moral support!

[Delta 4 Wheel]

I have ben paying close attention to this thread because I am halfway to building my antiwrap bar. I was initially planning on doing one similir to Patricks. I have attached the drawings I came up with, but still have time to change I already have one jonny joint, some 2"- .250 wall DOM and the bracket at the axle end.

Make me one while you are at it...I need one for my F350 as well. Let me know when you are done.

[crawlin68]

Yes, lets all brain storm and come up with a design, materials parts list, and lets have a 4-link party! We can all bring what tools we have and we can have a cut a weld fest. Then we will all go home with a 4-linked Bronco!

[crawlin68]

I have ben paying close attention to this thread because I am halfway to building my antiwrap bar. I was initially planning on doing one similir to Patricks. I have attached the drawings I came up with, but still have time to change I already have one jonny joint, some 2"- .250 wall DOM and the bracket at the axle end.

That looks like a good design. Did you get the parts at Trail Gear? I went in there the other day to get a JJ and tube inserts , but they were all out.

[highlander]

That looks like a good design. Did you get the parts at Trail Gear? I went in there the other day to get a JJ and tube inserts , but they were all out.

Yeah, the stuff I have so far, I'm planning to use the poly performence BA187 bushings (see the link) for all but the upper joint to the shackle (where it twists.) These bushings are the same width as the 2 1/2" JJ so they will fit the lower bracket and the other end of the shackle. So I just need to order those, buy a little steel for the crossmember, and something to make the shackle. By the time I'm done I think it might have been cheaper to buy the JD torque tamer. The 2" DOM seems like way overkill and isn't cheap.


http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/...&cat=28&page=1

[welndmn]

I have run a few anti wrap bars, and like Lars was thinking, the cure is a 4 link.
I ran a version like the WH bar, it worked well, killed about 90% of the wrap.
I also ran the Parts Mike wrap bar, same as the WH bar.
I never ran the Sams off road style, but have put it on a few friends trucks, its by far the best setup.
That Bam bar, I remember a large post on Pirates about it, and it was said to be a poor design, but it did work for some people.

[crawlin68]

The 2" DOM seems like way overkill and isn't cheap.

That's what I was thinking too. I use .120 wall when I built mine. Seems to be working just fine.