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The top and overhead console both look great. I like the flat top on the new soft top. I never really cared for the covered wagon look of the old tops. (like the one that I have)
Well after taking the Bronco back to my wifes families ranch near Coalinga over Easter and doing a bunch of steep side-hilling, I decided it was time to change out my springs. I had 5.5" WH coils in front and 4.5" Deaver coils in the rear. The ride was great and flexed well, but the Deavers are much softer than the WH coils and the back over flexed the front which made things pretty tippy on off camber climbs. I had picked up a set of 4.5" WH coils to swap for the 4.5" Deavers, but I decided I wanted to lower the bronco some to make it even more stable.
So today I put my old 3.5" WH coils in the rear.
to make this work I had to lower the shock mounts on the axle about 3", they were bottoming out a little even with the 4.5" coils. I then took the 4.5" Deaver coils and put them up front. The front shocks had 1" to spare on up travel, so I think they will work unchanged. The only reason why they wouldn't is if the Deavers allow more up travel, if they do I have room to move the mounts later. I'll keep an eye on them for a while.
I haven't had a chance to test it out on the trails yet but just driving it around the ranch and flexing it seemed to really balance things out. Driving down the road feels more stable again. When swapped to the Deavers in the rear it had a lot more body roll. I thought it might feel the same with them in the front but it feels much better. I am sure lowering it 1" helped as well.
Now I just need to replace the BC throttle cable that is fraying and causing a sticky throttle and swap out a in tank pump for my dual pump system and I should be all set for the summer. I do have some other minor projects but nothing that will keep it from wheeling.
Looks really good Steve. I lowered mine for the same reason. I went from 5.5 Cage coils to 3.5WH in the front and to a stock bronco coil in the back. It made a huge difference. I still haven't tried those progressive coils you sent my way, but I figured when I was at Tony's house on the 25th I could test them out. It only takes about ten minutes to change them out. My rear axle still out works my front. We'll see if it makes a difference on the ramp.
Looks good Steve. The new stance isn't drastically different but I like it.
So off topic - how do you like your exhaust exit location? I am thinking of routing my tailpipe to about the same spot. Right now mines just dumping over the rear axle which is no good. Do you have any problems with fumes coming into the vehicle with it not coming all the way out and to the side of the body?
Looks good Steve. The new stance isn't drastically different but I like it.
So off topic - how do you like your exhaust exit location? I am thinking of routing my tailpipe to about the same spot. Right now mines just dumping over the rear axle which is no good. Do you have any problems with fumes coming into the vehicle with it not coming all the way out and to the side of the body?
It has worked well, I tried to point it to the side as much as possible with out putting it out in harms way. It's slightly more to the back then I would of liked, but I had to contend with my shock placement.
Well as most of you know I cooked the pinion bearing in my 9" again. While I was waiting for the dropout to be rebuilt I replaced my dual pump accumulator system with a a single in tank pump. I have the newer BCB tank so the mustang pump was a direct bolt in. With the in tank pump I needed a new 10 micron filter that was rated for EFI pressures. All the aftermarket ones I could find were outrageously priced and I wanted to keep it simple to change using AN fittings like the rest of my fuel system. After searching through tons of catalogs and speed shops I was about ready to bite the bullet for a high dollar filter. Then I was doing some scheduled maintenance on my 01 1500 Chevy including a fuel filter change, when I found a solution. The GM fuel filter (AC Delco part #GF652) uses 16mm x 1.5 O-ring fittings and costs around $20 at just about any parts store. So I went to summit and ordered two -6 an to 16mm x 1.5 O-ring adapters (Russel part #648060). So now I have an inexpensive screw in EFI filter that can be easily obtained almost anywhere. I mounted the filter on the frame rail just in front of the tank right where my old low pressure pump used to sit, the filter actually fits in the same bracket better than the pump did.
With the huge accumulator filter and High Pressure pump gone from the drivers side core support I decided to clean my OBA system which was just hobbled together at the last minute before a trip using parts I had laying around. I used to have a large pressure switch, pop of valve, air chuck, and oil separator crammed into the small space left on the passenger fire wall. So I tossed pretty much the whole contraption except the oil separator. I bought a new small Viair 150 psi pressure switch that is a fraction of the size of the old one. My old check valve wasn't sealing properly anymore after 12 years of use and the old 120psi pressure relief valve had to go in place of a 160psi. I made a small aluminum bracket that mounts the oil separator in two of three holes that used to hold the fuel accumulator/filter. The check valve screws into the separator and connects a cross that hold the pressure relief, pressure switch and a outgoing line. I ran the line out to the bumper where I made another aluminum bracket to hold a air chuck, no more opening the hood for air. When I get to building my rockers this will later pass through a storage tank, but for now works fine without a tank for airing tires up. I was alos able to use a bunch of the old AN adapters and hose ends from the old fuel system for the new air system. Eventually I plan to plumb something with a valve to the ARB air system in case the ARB compressor fails.
I put the repaired 9" dropout back in last night and drove to town and back to let everything get warmed and seated before this weekend everything seems to work so far. I then took the chance to test the flex of my spring changes and modified rear shock mounts. The 4.5" Deavers coils up front and 3.5" WH coils in the rear work much better. It is amazing how much more the front compresses, I need to do some more fender trimming make some bump stops up front now. The stiffer 3.5" WH coils in the rear paired with the soft Deavers up front really balanced things out and the rear shocks are allowing much more compression now. I do need to space my rear bumps down a bit. I took lots of pictures to keep you all happy! I know it needs a bath now.
Looks Great !!!! just a cupple things if you get a hydraulic hose cap they fit on the air chusks to keep them clean.http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/6BU59 kind of looks like this buy way cheeper $5.00. And is your Bronco streched?? and if so how much front & Back
Thanks
Brian
Originally posted by TBS-POPS
After a huge amount of reflection, I have determined that what I saw in ukiah was in fact Brians bronco. I was also informed by my wife that she infact heard it run!!
Looks Great !!!! just a cupple things if you get a hydraulic hose cap they fit on the air chusks to keep them clean.http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/6BU59 kind of looks like this buy way cheeper $5.00. And is your Bronco streched?? and if so how much front & Back
Thanks
Brian
I have a rubber cap for it somewhere, I've been trying to figure out where I put it for few days????
Front is stock position, rear is moved back 1.5". WB is 93.5".
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