Ignition issues (two of them)

[dirtboy488]

First let me start off by saying the PO did all the wiring mess on this thing and am slowly trying to fix the problems as I go.

The first is while the truck is off the factory ignition box on the fire wall has a constant draw of 1.7 amps on the wire that comes from the positive side of the starter relay. This only started after I had a small fire that shorted that wire along with others out because unknown to me there were two bare wires hanging from the alternator wire.

The box is wired like so: One wire comes from the starter relay to power up the box it seems, one goes to the choke from the box, anothr goes from the box to the ignition switch, another goes to a condenser looking deal that mounts to the box. So I am thinking that fire shorted the box out and killed it so now there is a constant draw.

What does this box really do???????

NEXT

I put in an Accel points eliminator (#2020) and Accel coil (#8140C). For some reason the coil keeps getting very hot and either boiling the oil out or shuts the engine off completely. I have tried three new coils at this point with the same result.

What I do know: The positive side of the coil sees 11.7v when the key is on (the wire goes directly to the ignition switch) when running the positive sees anwhere from 11.7v-13v maybie 14v. But the negative side of the coil sees 1.3v with the key on and 5.4 to 7.5v when running. (I am thinking this is why it is getting so hot)

Thanks,

Terry

[TBS-POPS]

Terry, can you post a pic of "the box" you are talking about.. I'm a little confused about what you have... can prob help if I knew what you have. (others too)

POPS

[dirtboy488]

Here you go the BALLAST I am talking about look more like a resistor or somthing? Sorry for the crappy writing on the pic.

[TBS-POPS]

Thats the VOLTAGE REGULATOR for your alternator!!!!! Has nothing to do with your ignition or the choke!!!! Nowonder your blowing up coils!! You need to rewire everything right now. PO was an IDIOT if he wired that into ign. PULL YOUR BATTERY CABLES BEFOR YOUR GARAGE GOES UP IN FLAMES!!!!!!

pops

[jvanderveen22]

does the main power wire for the coil have the ballast resistor inline?

[71BRONCO71]

Wiring Map

heres something that can help out.. just pick the year of yours... I always look at this before touching wires....

[dirtboy488]

Although I am not the best at reading diagrams the only thing on the rtuck that looks like it is wired right is the fuel switch, gauges (with the exception of the ammeter) and thats about it. Well I might be better off buying a new harness then trying to polish this turd.

[natureboy300]

If you decide to go with a new harness, know that you are getting into a large product. IMO a new harness is a good upgrade, especially after seeing what kind of hack job the PO has done. I have yet to install a new harness in my rig yet (plan to probably next year) but have helped a friend do his, and to do a quality job looking at probably 30-40 hours (if going with one of the aftermarket harnesses.

NB

[dirtboy488]

Is this the correct way the alternator should be wired. I am asuming that wire #1 should feed the truck power? Usually I am pretty good with wiring but looking at my Bronco compaired to the wiring diagram that has every ingnition option of all the trucks in one diagram I find mysef a little confused. I put in a new regulator in and now the truck will not run with the positive cable connected so maybie the alt took a crap (but doubtful). I am assuming the PO had a regulator problem and rewired the truck so it would still work, now I have to re-re-wire it. I am still confused on where the coil and distributor get there power from, is it from the ignition switch?

Thanks,

Terry

[69 broncosport]

The coil gets power from the ign switch and the dizzy from the coil, The factory harness goes up through the firewall. If I remember right it's a 3 wire harness, One to the oil pressure switch one to the temp sender and the third to the coil. Hope that helps a little, Good luck

[Formerjughead]

I'd pitch it all and go with a new Centech...........they are absolutely idiot proof. You'll spend less time and have fewer worries.

here is my install:

http://www.broncofix.com/viewtopic.php?t=272729

[welndmn]

If you have any concern with that Voltage Reg, cut it all out, go to the junk yard, spend 25$ on a 3G Alt, and never look back.

[blwngsket]

If you have any concern with that Voltage Reg, cut it all out, go to the junk yard, spend 25$ on a 3G Alt, and never look back.

X2 on that one. Get a centech if you need a re-wire. I put one in 2 years ago, real easy. But if that mess in the pics is the only prob. Do the 3g upgrade and call it good.

Tony

[dirtboy488]

X2 on that one. Get a centech if you need a re-wire. I put one in 2 years ago, real easy. But if that mess in the pics is the only prob. Do the 3g upgrade and call it good.

Tony

What year cars and trucks, thats what I am going to do for sure!!!!

[dirtboy488]

I put in an Accel points eliminator (#2020) and Accel coil (#8140C). For some reason the coil keeps getting very hot and either boiling the oil out or shuts the engine off completely. I have tried three new coils at this point with the same result.

What I do know: The positive side of the coil sees 11.7v when the key is on (the wire goes directly to the ignition switch) when running the positive sees anwhere from 11.7v-13v maybie 14v. But the negative side of the coil sees 1.3v with the key on and 5.4 to 7.5v when running. (I am thinking this is why it is getting so hot)

I still cant quite figure this problem out, althought the regulator problem should be fixed with the new 3G alt.