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  • #1

    cam install questions?

    Im almost ready to change out my cam, I have a lifter stuck and the intake valve isent opening on number 2 cylinder. I got a new cam and lifters the other day and I was wondering if it would be easier to take out the front grill and do the work with the motor in the bronco or take out the motor? Also I have never changed a cam in a v8 so wish me luck
    Also will I need to take the oil pan off?
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Re: cam install questions?

    Pull the motor clean and paint when done you will feel good about it.
    Originally posted by TBS-POPS
    After a huge amount of reflection, I have determined that what I saw in ukiah was in fact Brians bronco. I was also informed by my wife that she infact heard it run!!

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    • #3
      Re: cam install questions?

      If the valve is not opening, that sounds more like a flat cam than a stuck lifter.

      Make sure to read up on ZDDP when you break-in your new flat tappet cam and lifters.

      The pan can stay on, but the timing cover has to come off...easiest to do it with the engine in-frame...

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      • #4
        Re: cam install questions?

        If you don't remove the oil pan, don't try to use the front part of the new pan gasket when you reinstall the timing cover. If you do it will push the cover off center and the front seal will be wiped out. Use a bead of silicone between the pan and cover, gasket between cover and block, install the cover bolts loose, then slide on the balancer to center the cover before you tighten the bolts. JL
        '66 roadster, 200 six, GM HEI, 3.03/Jeep T150 shifter, 4.11 gears, 3" lift, 33X12.5

        "I can explain it to you a hundred times, but I can't understand it for you!"

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        • #5
          Re: cam install questions?

          I don't understand I have a one piece pan gasket. Can you explained the gasket more for me? I did check out the ZDDP for the oil and I think that I lost a lifter and intern took out a lobe on the cam. The first thing I heard was a loud tap and then it went away then my power went down with a strong fuel smell. all the other plugs look dark now and that plug looks like it is new with no gas or oil on it this is after I changed plugs to make sure everything was fresh. I'm not sure that makes sense?

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          • #6
            Re: cam install questions?

            Guess I'm still in the dark ages. In the old days the pan gaskets had cork sections for the sides, and rubber sections for the front and rear. If you bought a front cover set you'd get a new rubber section for the front, but if you try to reinstall the cover with that section in place it puts pressure in the upward direction and there's no way to get the cover centered over the damper, and that invariably wipes out the new front seal you just installed. The fix is to use silicone instead of the rubber seal section so you can center the cover over the crankshaft by installing the damper before you tighten the bolts. JL
            '66 roadster, 200 six, GM HEI, 3.03/Jeep T150 shifter, 4.11 gears, 3" lift, 33X12.5

            "I can explain it to you a hundred times, but I can't understand it for you!"

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            • #7
              Re: cam install questions?

              So the gasket kit has some gaskets for the front oil pan like you said do I cut the old rubber one off and use these?

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              • #8
                Re: cam install questions?

                I recently did my timing cover and it came with just the front section of oil pan gaket which I used successfully. If you going to replace the entire oilpan gasket than this is a non-issue as once you are done with the cam swap you'll do the oil pan last.

                Depending on your engine bay, engine block and accessories as well as your wiring, it would be nice to clean up some stuff if it looks crapy. Otherwise just do it in the truck.
                Idle hands equates to wild horses getting my money

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                • #9
                  Re: cam install questions?

                  I thought any issues with installing and/or aligning the cover were taken care of by loosening the pan? You don't have to take it off, but why not loosen it up to let the front drop just a bit?
                  I thought it was pretty much mandatory frankly, and have never attempted to install a front cover without loosening the oil pan.

                  Paul
                  Wild Horses 4-Wheel Drive
                  www.wildhorses4x4.com

                  71 U15 3.5" WH lift, Hanson rear, cut w/33" Swamper Thornbirds
                  68 U15 2.5" WH lift, Hanson front, uncut w/31 BFG Explorer engine/trans

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                  • #10
                    Re: cam install questions?

                    Sooooo.... you just loosen the bolts and break the seal on the gasket allowing the pan drop a 1/2" or so and then when finished, tighten the bolts back to factory torque specs?

                    And it doesn't leak?
                    Idle hands equates to wild horses getting my money

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                    • #11
                      Re: cam install questions?

                      Originally posted by California Monkey View Post
                      Sooooo.... you just loosen the bolts and break the seal on the gasket allowing the pan drop a 1/2" or so and then when finished, tighten the bolts back to factory torque specs?

                      And it doesn't leak?
                      OK guys...we need more information on this one.

                      There are two very different methods of sealing the oil pan. The early 302 used a cork gasket, and rubber end seals, and the timing cover was located on the bolts.

                      The late model 5.0 used a one piece gasket, and the timing cover is located by two hollow dowels at the bottom of the cover. It is almost impossible to get the timing cover back in on the dowels without loosening or dropping the pan.

                      The OP states that he has a 1 piece gasket...and therefore he should NOT cut off the end of the gasket. With a 1 piece gasket, you would always want to drop the pan, and ensure that the location tabs on the gasket end seal are properly seated into the timing cover.

                      If you have a 35 year old cork gasket in your Bronco 302...and you "loosen" it, it will absolutely leak when you try to put it back together. This is why the Timing cover gasket set comes with the little end pieces and a new pan end seal. This is not a huge deal in a Bronco, because the pan is easy to get to. But in a late model Fox Body, it's a real pain.

                      With the original cork design, Polecat has the answer below.

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                      • #12
                        Re: cam install questions?

                        There's the explanation. Thanks, James, I didn't know about the later design.

                        I tried to change the timing cover on a '67 289 that had corroded through, and I couldn't get the new gasket section to compress enough to even install the damper. A buddy I talked to at the time said even if I did get it to go on it would wipe out the seal if it wasn't centered. Made sense to me. I removed the gasket section and used a heavy bead of silicone, went together easily, never had a problem. Centering the cover over the damper is what's important if you want the front seal to last. That's why the cover bolts should be tightened after the damper is installed on the crankshaft. JL
                        '66 roadster, 200 six, GM HEI, 3.03/Jeep T150 shifter, 4.11 gears, 3" lift, 33X12.5

                        "I can explain it to you a hundred times, but I can't understand it for you!"

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                        • #13
                          Re: cam install questions?

                          Ok I think I'm tackling this today wish me luck
                          Last edited by pipelayer; 09-19-2013, 06:44 AM.

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                          • #14
                            Re: cam install questions?

                            If you lost a cam lobe and/or a lifter, all that metal is in you engine. Just changing the cam and lifters may lead to more problems.
                            If there is material missing, I would pull the entire engine apart, clean the engine thoroughly and replace any worn parts.

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                            • #15
                              Re: cam install questions?

                              I got it all apart yesterday the front grill was the hardest part with every bolt braking or just spinning. I new it was going to be a pain when the first bolt broke leaving me bluddie knuckles on both hands only three minutes into the job. I'm to the part at it would be nice to have somebody looking over my shoulder that has don this before cam is in lifters are in valve lash set and timing cover is on but I keep mind f_cking my self if I got it correct or not.it is sexy inside
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