Does anyone know a place in sacramento who can or will mill some DOM.I'm building the LARS bars ( or similar) but i need the ends milled to fit the radius arms.
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Re: milling
thats going to be last resort.. might see if i can get the milling bit and just use the drill press. I have a small vice that clamps to the press so I'm thinking i can use that to hold the DOM straight and just push it into the bit.75 sport 302 c4 full width 44 front 9 rear let the building begin
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Re: milling
If you can borrow Lars' welding fixture, a milled slot isn't as important. Milling is easier and saves time, though. Check with Ruff Stuff in Loomis. I'd guess that they have a mill with all the stuff they make. Also, when we did a few sets of Lars bars, we (I) did the milling of the slot after the tubing was bent. It was easier to align the slot to the bend than have to align the bend to the slot.
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Re: milling
Originally posted by gddyap View PostIf you can borrow Lars' welding fixture, a milled slot isn't as important. Milling is easier and saves time, though. Check with Ruff Stuff in Loomis. I'd guess that they have a mill with all the stuff they make. Also, when we did a few sets of Lars bars, we (I) did the milling of the slot after the tubing was bent. It was easier to align the slot to the bend than have to align the bend to the slot.sigpicRoad trips on an island get boring after the 1st lap...
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Re: milling
Originally posted by gddyap View PostIf you can borrow Lars' welding fixture, a milled slot isn't as important. Milling is easier and saves time, though. Check with Ruff Stuff in Loomis. I'd guess that they have a mill with all the stuff they make. Also, when we did a few sets of Lars bars, we (I) did the milling of the slot after the tubing was bent. It was easier to align the slot to the bend than have to align the bend to the slot.75 sport 302 c4 full width 44 front 9 rear let the building begin
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Re: milling
You got some old rad arms kevin?? If not, there are some here you can have in the popx pile.72 sport/exp.,TBI 302,NP435,4.56 Powrlok/ARB in Full Width's.5.5" CAGE lift w/arms,2'' bl,37's, rescued from the concrete jungle (L.A.) NEVER DONE!!! Sold to buy a Boat, Now Broncoless.....Now it's fast water,smooth women and cold beer!! toad jeep owner now,,,,,, sorry
ALL MY DRINKING BUDDIES HAVE A SEVERE BRONCO PROBLEM !!!
Originally posted by 71BRONCO71BULLSHIT! I love your meat in my mouth
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Re: milling
Originally posted by TBS-POPS View PostYou got some old rad arms kevin?? If not, there are some here you can have in the popx pile.75 sport 302 c4 full width 44 front 9 rear let the building begin
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I have an extended set of arms using 2" square tube and weld-on ballistic joints. I took them off of my bronco in favor of the Duff arms. Now they're just sitting around. Don't know if you can use them or not. On another note, I don't think Ruff Stuff has a milling machine but WFO does!SOLD: 1975 Ford Bronco: 105" wheelbase, King 14" c/o shocks, King 2" air bumps w/ Duff arms, 4 link rear w/ coils. Fuel injected 408W, ZF 5 speed/Atlas II(4.3) and Dana 60/70 axles with 5.13 gears and ARB's, 41.5/13.5R17 Pitbull Rockers on 17" Raceline Monsters.
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Re: milling
The bend in the Lars Bars is not for tire clearance. The stock radius arms are at an 8-10* angle from the axle. Lars measured it and I think it's in his thread. If you extended the stock arms using stock width axles, the end of the arms would end up inside the frame rails. By bending them, the ends of the extended arms are put directly under the frame rail and parallel to them. That puts the joints in a neutral position with equal movement in all directions. I did not know you have FW axles. Depending on the length of the radius arms, your joints may end up directly underneath the frame. You could angle your brackets so the joints are in a neutral position. You could still make a simple fixture to hold the tubing straight on the radius arm for welding. Then the slot doesn't have to be perfect. Take a look at Lars' fixture in his thread.
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Last edited by kevoson; 07-12-2011, 09:06 AM.75 sport 302 c4 full width 44 front 9 rear let the building begin
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Re: milling
Am I looking at that right...that rod is just welded to the end of a stock arm??? that looks scary!!! I would say a new "Beefier" set-up is in order. Just my .0270 Bronco, 5.0, ARB front 44, Detroit 9in Rear, Dana 20 w/ Rock Eaters, NP435, Beadlocked 36X13.5 IROXS
2001 F-250, triple gauges, ATO Tranny, 35 SST's, line-x, bully dogged!
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Re: milling
Originally posted by slvregl View PostAm I looking at that right...that rod is just welded to the end of a stock arm??? that looks scary!!! I would say a new "Beefier" set-up is in order. Just my .0275 sport 302 c4 full width 44 front 9 rear let the building begin
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My buddy runs those extentions front & rear. No problems whatsoever in over 3 years of hard wheeling. Busted plenty of other shit but not the arms. This last 'Con trip the arms and C bushings actually put so much leverage on the FW 9" that it opened up the factory seam weld on the housing like a tuna can (poor 3 link design!). No problem with the arms though...sigpicRoad trips on an island get boring after the 1st lap...
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