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  • milling

    Does anyone know a place in sacramento who can or will mill some DOM.I'm building the LARS bars ( or similar) but i need the ends milled to fit the radius arms.
    75 sport 302 c4 full width 44 front 9 rear let the building begin

  • #2
    Re: milling

    I need to slot mine still too. I was just going to use the ol' grinder with a cutoff wheel to cut the slots.

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    • #3
      Re: milling

      thats going to be last resort.. might see if i can get the milling bit and just use the drill press. I have a small vice that clamps to the press so I'm thinking i can use that to hold the DOM straight and just push it into the bit.
      75 sport 302 c4 full width 44 front 9 rear let the building begin

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      • #4
        Re: milling

        If you can borrow Lars' welding fixture, a milled slot isn't as important. Milling is easier and saves time, though. Check with Ruff Stuff in Loomis. I'd guess that they have a mill with all the stuff they make. Also, when we did a few sets of Lars bars, we (I) did the milling of the slot after the tubing was bent. It was easier to align the slot to the bend than have to align the bend to the slot.

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        • #5
          Re: milling

          Originally posted by gddyap View Post
          If you can borrow Lars' welding fixture, a milled slot isn't as important. Milling is easier and saves time, though. Check with Ruff Stuff in Loomis. I'd guess that they have a mill with all the stuff they make. Also, when we did a few sets of Lars bars, we (I) did the milling of the slot after the tubing was bent. It was easier to align the slot to the bend than have to align the bend to the slot.
          I'm just gonna use 2x .25 wall square tubing. Right angles make more easy for Mongo...
          sigpicRoad trips on an island get boring after the 1st lap...

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          • #6
            Re: milling

            Originally posted by gddyap View Post
            If you can borrow Lars' welding fixture, a milled slot isn't as important. Milling is easier and saves time, though. Check with Ruff Stuff in Loomis. I'd guess that they have a mill with all the stuff they make. Also, when we did a few sets of Lars bars, we (I) did the milling of the slot after the tubing was bent. It was easier to align the slot to the bend than have to align the bend to the slot.
            I'm not going to add the bend. Maybe I'm looking at it wrong but the bend seems to be more of a tire clearance issue."I'm sure I'm wrong" I have extended arms now and the fitment is good but they have the center bolt and bushings now but they bind bad with the FW 44. So I'm hoping that with the same style arm and a Rod end with the high misalignment spacers The bind will go away?? Or until I go dana 60 and 70 linked..
            75 sport 302 c4 full width 44 front 9 rear let the building begin

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            • #7
              Re: milling

              You got some old rad arms kevin?? If not, there are some here you can have in the popx pile.
              72 sport/exp.,TBI 302,NP435,4.56 Powrlok/ARB in Full Width's.5.5" CAGE lift w/arms,2'' bl,37's, rescued from the concrete jungle (L.A.) NEVER DONE!!! Sold to buy a Boat, Now Broncoless.....Now it's fast water,smooth women and cold beer!! toad jeep owner now,,,,,, sorry

              ALL MY DRINKING BUDDIES HAVE A SEVERE BRONCO PROBLEM !!!


              Originally posted by 71BRONCO71
              BULLSHIT! I love your meat in my mouth
              RIP MARK BECK RIP MY FRIEND! RIP GIZMO,My little Buddy.

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              • #8
                Re: milling

                Originally posted by TBS-POPS View Post
                You got some old rad arms kevin?? If not, there are some here you can have in the popx pile.
                Ya I have a set of arms. I kept the set off the truck I got my axels from, I actually thought ahead... But thanks for the offer
                75 sport 302 c4 full width 44 front 9 rear let the building begin

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                • #9
                  Re: milling

                  I have an extended set of arms using 2" square tube and weld-on ballistic joints. I took them off of my bronco in favor of the Duff arms. Now they're just sitting around. Don't know if you can use them or not. On another note, I don't think Ruff Stuff has a milling machine but WFO does!
                  SOLD: 1975 Ford Bronco: 105" wheelbase, King 14" c/o shocks, King 2" air bumps w/ Duff arms, 4 link rear w/ coils. Fuel injected 408W, ZF 5 speed/Atlas II(4.3) and Dana 60/70 axles with 5.13 gears and ARB's, 41.5/13.5R17 Pitbull Rockers on 17" Raceline Monsters.

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                  • #10
                    Re: milling

                    I have found a few places in sac that will mill the DOM but I think I will do it on my own.. I just need to get the bronco closer to the welder...
                    75 sport 302 c4 full width 44 front 9 rear let the building begin

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                    • #11
                      Re: milling

                      The bend in the Lars Bars is not for tire clearance. The stock radius arms are at an 8-10* angle from the axle. Lars measured it and I think it's in his thread. If you extended the stock arms using stock width axles, the end of the arms would end up inside the frame rails. By bending them, the ends of the extended arms are put directly under the frame rail and parallel to them. That puts the joints in a neutral position with equal movement in all directions. I did not know you have FW axles. Depending on the length of the radius arms, your joints may end up directly underneath the frame. You could angle your brackets so the joints are in a neutral position. You could still make a simple fixture to hold the tubing straight on the radius arm for welding. Then the slot doesn't have to be perfect. Take a look at Lars' fixture in his thread.

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                      • #12
                        Re: milling

                        I added a picture of the style of extended arm I have now. Maybe It would be better to just use the arm I have now and and add the heim joint to the end??
                        Attached Files
                        Last edited by kevoson; 07-12-2011, 09:06 AM.
                        75 sport 302 c4 full width 44 front 9 rear let the building begin

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                        • #13
                          Re: milling

                          Am I looking at that right...that rod is just welded to the end of a stock arm??? that looks scary!!! I would say a new "Beefier" set-up is in order. Just my .02
                          70 Bronco, 5.0, ARB front 44, Detroit 9in Rear, Dana 20 w/ Rock Eaters, NP435, Beadlocked 36X13.5 IROXS

                          2001 F-250, triple gauges, ATO Tranny, 35 SST's, line-x, bully dogged!

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                          • #14
                            Re: milling

                            Originally posted by slvregl View Post
                            Am I looking at that right...that rod is just welded to the end of a stock arm??? that looks scary!!! I would say a new "Beefier" set-up is in order. Just my .02
                            They tread on to the old stud on the arm and then welded.. I think It puts alot of torque / leverage on the old mounting stud. I talked to the people at stonecrusher and they assured me they are strong and safe. ( I don't know what brand I have they were done by the PO but ) hence the reason I have the stuff to make a new set..
                            75 sport 302 c4 full width 44 front 9 rear let the building begin

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                            • #15
                              Re: milling

                              My buddy runs those extentions front & rear. No problems whatsoever in over 3 years of hard wheeling. Busted plenty of other shit but not the arms. This last 'Con trip the arms and C bushings actually put so much leverage on the FW 9" that it opened up the factory seam weld on the housing like a tuna can (poor 3 link design!). No problem with the arms though...
                              sigpicRoad trips on an island get boring after the 1st lap...

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