6daze project

[6daze]

Re: 6daze project

I got the timing cover installed. I used a Felpro gasket set 45449. It included the timing cover gasket and a new crank seal. I drove the old seal out and used a "special tool" to drive the new one in. Anybody recognize it?

I sprayed some High Tac sealer onto the gasket and cover, let it set up a couple minutes and stuck them together. Then I carefully trimmed a little off the gasket that was not needed.

I backed most of the oil pan bolts at this point so I wouldn't have to push the pan down as the cover went on.

With the block scraped clean I set the cover on and started a couple of the lower bolts. Next I put the balancer (I am using stock one) back on the crank to help center the timing cover.

With the cover about in the right spot I attached the water pump. Again using High Tac and the gasket from the Felpro kit, I let them set up and installed it on the cover. I torqued all the bolts to about 15 ft/lbs.

I included a pic with all the bolt sizes for the timing cover and water pump ( all bolts are 5/16").

[6daze]

Re: 6daze project

I picked up the water pump from Kragen. It was a new unit and cost about $80. I think Napa had a slightly cheaper one at about $65.

I put the water pump pulley on next. I didn't have any stock bolts but I was able to pick some at the hardware store. They are 5/16-24. I used 3/4" long as thats all they had.

I used the Explorer thermostat housing. It is more of a 90 degree fitting than the stock 45 degree housing. I reused a fairly new 195 stat.

While I was here I put the timing pointer on. I pulled a stock one out of the junkyard. Apparently not all Explorers came with pointers, but they all had crank position sensors. I left the sensor underneath the pointer and bolted it up with the stock bolts.

Before I started I turned the motor over so that the stock pointer was set at 10 BTDC. Once I put the Explorer timing cover and pointer on, I marked a line on the balancer where the new pointer "pointed".

I decided to use the Driven Auto Parts pulley. This allowed me to keep my stock balancer and just bolt up the pulley. I called Driven at 1.888.269.3969 and they had a pulley on the way for about $80.

Another option was to get my Explorer pulley rebalanced for my older motor. Damperdudes.net can do this for around $60 plus shipping. However I am not sure how long this original motor is going to last. My long term plans include that roller motor sitting in my garage!

The Driven pulley bolted up to my balancer with the stock bolts.

Next up was the brackets. I started with the alternator bracket. I used three bolts 7/16-14 x 4 1/4", 3/8-16 2 3/4", and 3/8-16 x 4 1/4". I didn't try to use the bolt behind the tensioner. Do not try to bolt this thing up with the alternator on! It is very akward and much more difficult this way.

Once the bracket was in place I bolted the alternator on top of the bracket using the stock bolts. I used the Fordfuelinjection.com 4G alternator harness.

I had about 1/2" clearance between the lower pulley and the engine crossmember. I have stock motor mounts.

The PS/AC bracket was next. I bolted up the AC compressor and the PS pump to the bracket with the stock bolts. It was a little heavy but it would be much more difficult to install the AC compressor with the bracket on the motor. I used the stock bolts for the bracket, all 7/16-14 x 4 1/4".

[6daze]

Re: 6daze project

I chose to have my stock explorer power steering pump rebuilt prior to installation. I took the pulley off and sent the pump to Lee Manufacturing in Sun Valley, Ca. I told them what size tires I was running and that I was using hydroboost brakes. They “calibrated” the pump for my setup. I was told it was tested at 3GPH and 1600 psi. I also got the proper fitting and washer from them for the pressure side of the pump.

I plan to run the stock reservoir for now and needed to modify it a little to make it work. First I needed to move it down about an inch and back about ½ inch. Otherwise it hits the rib on the stock hood. I have a 1” body lift and stock motor mounts. Things start to get tight however when you are keeping the AC condenser.

The reservoir normally mounts with three tabs. I cut the bottom rear tab off because it was hitting the condenser (see yellow line). Next I made an offset plate that moved the reservoir down and back. I also had to trim about ¼” of the ps/ac bracket to clear the pump supply line (see yellow arrow).

I have been using hydroboost brakes for a couple years now and have never been very happy with the “Tee” in the return line. To avoid this I added a second return to the stock reservoir (idea stolen from Fungus). I simply drilled and tapped the reservoir and put in a 3/8” barb fitting. I wrapped the threads with tape. We will see how it holds up.

As far as plumbing the PS I used Aeroquip TFE hose. I have the astro booster and 2WD F150 box. I listed all the fittings and drew up a quick diagram of how it is plumbed. My astro booster is mounted on the firewall, rotated 180*.

Parts list:

3/8” barb fitting
6' Aeroquip TFE hose
Aeroquip 5/16” box fitting FBM 1143 1
Aeroquip 90* fitting FBM 1122 3
Lee Manufacturing Washer 80520 1
Lee Manufacturing Pump Fitting 40810 1
Speedway Motors 18mm-6 AN adapter 617-4808 1
Speedway Motors 16mm-6 AN adapter 617-4806 1

[904Bronco]

Re: 6daze project

I chose to have my stock explorer power steering pump rebuilt prior to installation. I took the pulley off and sent the pump to Lee Manufacturing in Sun Valley, Ca. I told them what size tires I was running and that I was using hydroboost brakes. They “calibrated” the pump for my setup. I was told it was tested at 3GPH and 1600 psi. I also got the proper fitting and washer from them for the pressure side of the pump.

I plan to run the stock reservoir for now and needed to modify it a little to make it work. First I needed to move it down about an inch and back about ½ inch. Otherwise it hits the rib on the stock hood. I have a 1” body lift and stock motor mounts. Things start to get tight however when you are keeping the AC condenser.

The reservoir normally mounts with three tabs. I cut the bottom rear tab off because it was hitting the condenser (see yellow line). Next I made an offset plate that moved the reservoir down and back. I also had to trim about ¼” of the ps/ac bracket to clear the pump supply line (see yellow arrow).

I have been using hydroboost brakes for a couple years now and have never been very happy with the “Tee” in the return line. To avoid this I added a second return to the stock reservoir (idea stolen from Fungus). I simply drilled and tapped the reservoir and put in a 3/8” barb fitting. I wrapped the threads with tape. We will see how it holds up.

As far as plumbing the PS I used Aeroquip TFE hose. I have the astro booster and 2WD F150 box. I listed all the fittings and drew up a quick diagram of how it is plumbed. My astro booster is mounted on the firewall, rotated 180*.

Very nice! I wish I could run this Serp setup on mine, but I need a smog pump because the Bi-annual smogs. Mustang serp is too close to the rad...

[6daze]

Re: 6daze project

PS diagram

[6daze]

Re: 6daze project

Once all the accessories were on it was time to install the serp belt. If you haven’t got the balancer torqued down, it is now time. I was able to do that with the Bronco in gear. I got my belt from Kragen for a 1999 Explorer with AC, part # K060935. Apparently the brackets varied a little from year to year but this belt fit for me. I wound the belt around everything except the alternator. With a 11/16 socket on the tensioner, I turned it clockwise until I had enough slack to slip the belt over the alternator pulley. This is much easier to do without the fan installed. There is very little clearance with the fan installed and it requires a special tool.

Up next is the fan and shroud. These need to be installed together. I still have a stock radiator and shroud. With my 1” body lift I needed to trim the lower lip of the shroud (see white line in pic). I used a plastic 4.0 Explorer fan as that is all I could find. It is the same size as the 5.0 fan. It threaded onto the water pump and I tightened it down with a fan wrench. I had this laying around but it was just a hair to small for the fan. I opened it up a little with my angle grinder and was good to go. A tool could easily be made out of flat stock with about a 1 3/8” opening. With the belt on there is plenty of tension on the water pump pulley and I did not need to hold on to the water pump bolts.

For the lower hose I used a 2002 7.3 diesel hose, Napa part number NBH 9323. I trimmed about 4 inches from the radiator side but it fit well.

The upper hose I used the 68 GTO hose, Pep Boys part number 70480. Again I trimmed the radiator side several inches. Right now it rubs on the PS pulley. I plan in using a large adel clamp to mount it to the shroud. This should keep it out of the pulley. I also picked up some aluminum today to build an extension for my shroud. I want to make sure the air moves through the radiator, not around it!

[Broncrick]

Re: 6daze project

Nice write up! I found over on CB a guy did just the same thing to extend the shroud. He even posted up a cad template for all to use if you havent seen it. Its in my plans

[6daze]

Re: 6daze project

Nice write up! I found over on CB a guy did just the same thing to extend the shroud. He even posted up a cad template for all to use if you havent seen it. Its in my plans

Thanks! I did follow the plans posted on CB. I needed to modify a bit as I have a 1" body lift. I had to trim off about 1/2" of the bottom of the stock shroud (see white line in pic).

I also need to cut off a small "lip" from the driver's side shroud.(blue arrow) It wasn't in the pictures of the shroud posted on CB. I don't know if there are different stock shrouds...This allowed the extension to fit much better.

I went to my local metal supply shop looking for some aluminum. I got a piece 5"x 60". Since it is based on weight I payed a whopping $5.74. It is .040 thick.

I made a poster board template and fit it to my shroud. There are a couple measurements missing and a few that are tough to figure out. If you are building one of these, PM me for details. The fit looked pretty good so I traced it to the aluminum. I cut it out with a fine tooth metal blade for a jig saw. I cleaned up the edges with a 3M disk and wiped it all down with steel wool.

I attached the extension with several 8-32 bolts, starting at the top. Yes I did run out of aluminum so the two sides don't "meet" at the bottom. This is what the metal shop had...Hopefully this is temporary for me anyways.

I dropped the new shroud and fan in and attached it to the radiator. Everything clears so far!

I did add one large adel clamp to the upper hose, attaching it to the shroud. The GTO hose was rubbing slightly on the PS pulley. I stole this idea, and clamp, from Lars (thank you again). FWIW the stock Bronco upper hose probably would have worked. I would try it before buying the GTO hose. Again this will be somewhat temporary for me. I will need to retire this 39 year old radiator at some point and plan to get a 5.0 version.

I also added a clamp to the lower hose. It too was rubbing on a idler pulley. I might be able to solve this problem with a liitle more hose trimming. I need to replace this hose now anyways... It might also be rubbing because of the body lift.

I drove it around the block and so far now issues. I need to play with the timing a little bit, stay tuned for updates...

[Broncrick]

Re: 6daze project

Nice! would you be willing to trace out the pattern and send it up this way? would save me some work
Rick-

[6daze]

Re: 6daze project

Nice! would you be willing to trace out the pattern and send it up this way? would save me some work
Rick-

No problem! PM me your address...

[Broncrick]

Re: 6daze project

Thanks, and sent

[6daze]

Re: 6daze project

Budget Co2 system

I have been tossing around the idea of OBA for quite a while. Each system (belt driven compressor, electric compressor, Co2) has its advantages but I decided to go with Co2.

The following reasons drew me to Co2:
Ability to seat beads
Ability to run air tools
Portable (can go in the boat, trailer, etc)
No moving parts
No room under the hood (plans for A/C)
Relatively low cost (see below)



The tank:

I had two small tanks from a oxy/act torch kit that I no longer used. My local welding shop traded me these two tanks for a full 10lb Co2 tank. My tanks were empty and cost about $130 a couple of years ago. A 10lb Co2 tank costs about $100 to $140 around here.

Cost: free, kinda



The regulator:

After extensive searching I found a fixed pressure regulator at Poly Performance in SLO. It is very reasonable at $35. The cheapest I could find locally was $75. The PP regulator does not have guages but they are essentially worthless with Co2. The pressure in the tank remains the same until it is empty. More expensive regulators are adjustable which would be needed for air lockers or extended air tool use. Neither of which are in my plans.

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/...tor-p-297.html

Cost: $42 shipped



The bracket:

To me this is the most important part of this system. It is essential that the tank is secured in my rig. The last thing I need is a 25lb metal tank floating around the Bronco! I picked up an adjustable fire extinguisher bracket. Now I need to mount it to the cage...
A CB brother showed me some aluminum brackets similar to the Fourtreks stuff. They only have one mounting hole but it is 1/2-20. I used two for my bracket, should be plenty strong.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-NEW...item3357ce73c2

Cost: Bracket $25
Clamps $30

The hose:

I have the used the cheap yellow plastic coiled hose around the house and have not been happy with it. I must have been using a small diameter but it would not flow enough air with my home air compressor to remove lug nuts! I looked around quite a bit and most people are happy with polyurethane hose. A local industrial supply had a 25' 3/8" straight hose in stock. I went with the straight hose rather than the coil because it seemed to take up less space.

http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CDIQ8wIwAw#

Cost: $18



Air Chuck:

Lastly I needed a way to get the Co2 in the tires. I already had an inflator that has a small window for the pressure. At Napa I found a clip-on air chuck that attaches to the valve stem. It clips on like an air chuck so you don't have to hold it. I removed the dual head chuck from the inflator and attached the clip-on chuck.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...m_pla=&cm_ite=

http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...536_0006402553

Cost: Inflator free, already owned it
Clip-on chuck: $12


I did pick up a couple of quick disconnect fittings to get everything attached. I can disconnect the hose from the bottle and the inflator from the hose.

Total cost about $100

Poly Performance sells an entire 10lb kit for about $215.
PowerTank kits are $300+

Here are some pics

[6daze]

Re: 6daze project

Shovel mount

I have been looking for a good, secure place to mount a shovel in my rig. In our rigs at work we use some rubber clamps to hold various tools in place. They are affordable and appear to work very well. I choose to mount my shovel on the vertical portion of the tire carrier. I need to road test it a bit but it should be just fine.

The manufacturer of the product actually says you can use them to mount a hilift jack!

[904Bronco]

Re: 6daze project

Shovel mount

I have been looking for a good, secure place to mount a shovel in my rig. In our rigs at work we use some rubber clamps to hold various tools in place. They are affordable and appear to work very well. I choose to mount my shovel on the vertical portion of the tire carrier. I need to road test it a bit but it should be just fine.

The manufacturer of the product actually says you can use them to mount a hilift jack!

Where is the McCloud mount? And how about an Indian backpack, you need one of those too... Looks good and great price!

[6daze]

Re: 6daze project

here is a link to the clamps...

http://www.endroad.com/page/page/711712.htm

Yes Doug, I could use a ladder rack, some cones and a halligan bar...