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Exhaust shop rebuilt my wye pipe. Looks good and clears my oil pan. I also had the bend some .250 wall 2" DOM tubing! Next project begins!
MAF
On my original EFI install I noticed the air filter that I chose to use would not let the MAF sit on the inner fender. I made a bracket to raise the MAF up about ½”. This time I decided to use small spacers under the MAF to create enough clearance for the air filter. I think it is a cleaner look.
Timing
This took me longer than I care to admit. ( I was trying to run it on the old firing order. new cam= HO firing order ) After fooling around I decided to try the HO firing order. It fired right up and runs like a champ.
So on my first drive to work, I lost oil pressure! I almost made it to work when I noticed a significant drop in pressure. I was watching it like a hawk so I am confident that I caught it quickly. I limped it into work and shut it off. The dipstick read a little low so I added a quart but it didn’t help. I knew it wasn’t the guage because the valvetrain was very noisy. I had about 10 psi at idle but it would never climb….I towed it home.
After a little research I tore apart the front of the block. In the oil pan I found a dime sized (once round) piece of metal. After pulling the timing chain I found a missing oil galley plug. In talking to the machine shop these are usually just installed with a punch and they stay. Apparently mine didn’t. To keep these in you can “stake” them like I did or “peen” them. Either method is supposed to keep the plugs from coming out. Another alternative is to tap and plug these while the block is torn down. There are three at the front of the motor and one in the lifter valley. The three at the back of the block are tapped from the factory.
Anyway I got it back together and the oil pressure sits about 40 at idle. I am driving it to work tomorrow so we shall see!
Well overall a successful day. My oil pressure was fine but I blew off the new BC lower crossover hose. and my upper hose is rubbing the PS pulley. Might need a new solution.
Also developed an exhaust leak at the driver's side header. Got it tightened up tonight and will test it out tomorrow. Just want to drive this thing!
The short list:
troubleshoot tach that stopped working
find PS leak
change speedo gear in Atlas
My exhaust leak required a new gasket on the drivers side header. Thankfully I kept my old "reusable" gaskets. Those Felpro ones I used suck!
The bolts loosened up and now matter how much I tightened them down the gasket still leaked. I guess I need to check those things a bit more.
Stage 8 headder locks work
Originally posted by TBS-POPS
After a huge amount of reflection, I have determined that what I saw in ukiah was in fact Brians bronco. I was also informed by my wife that she infact heard it run!!
Actually they didn't work for me. Maybe two per side would fit but the rest needed to be trimmed to fit. I decided it was too much of a pain and went with standard hex heads.
I had previously used a cable from BC but it was too short and fell apart the first time I installed it.
It has seemed to cure my "hanging idle" problem. As I came to a stop, the engine would idle around 1200 or so for a few seconds and then come down. It seems to have disappeared.
The RJM harness is clearly labeled for positive and ground.
Front end
Got the bumper back from powder and mounted up, I was able to squeeze in three bolts per side.
Got a great deal on a M8000 before the price hike, and free shipping to boot! I lengthened the wires to the control box so I could mount it under the hood.
Didn’t like the roller fairlead so I swapped it out for a warn hawse style. Also used a cover designed for the xd9000i. It is Warn part# 81761. The neoprene looks better IMHO.
Still need to bolt on the tow bar mounts.
Bolted up my lights to the tow hook holes for temporarily. I need to fab up a small hoop to move these up and in a little. Right now they completely block my turn signals!
Under the hood
Upper rad hose is just too tight a fit. It is hitting the fan, literally. So I switched to the combo hose as documented in the CB explorer serp swap. Problem now is that it hits the PS reservoir! I think I will run it like this for an upcoming trip and then find a new solution. I might move the reservoir over to the core support. Maybe even get one of those nice billet canisters from PSC?
Plumbed in a PS cooler. I had this sitting on the shelf for a while now waiting to get installed. I nabbed this off an explorer in the pick-n-pull. One mount was trimmed down a little and couple new holes/grommets in the firewall and I am good to go!
Finaly pushed through on the long arm project as well. Same as everyone elses.. nothing special. I had an exhaust shop bend the tube, built a fixture, Poly Performance brackets, Johnny Joints, etc. Powder coated semi gloss black.
I kept the 7 degree bushings in there for now. As far as I can tell my caster is still zero. Next month I plan to tear this apart and have the inner C s cut off and rotated. Then I will go back to stock bushings.
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